More F350 brake question

So when some funds become available I would like to replace the pads and rotors on my 96 F350 4x4 dump truck. Do I need to remove the locking hubs to get the rotors off? And by looking at my picture I think the wheel lug hub is unbolted from the rotor? Is this correct?
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If I remember right, the locking hub needs to come off first, seems there's a snap ring holding things togather in there.
 
Sure looks to me like everything has to come apart to get that rotor off. Big job ahead of you.
And as far as funds have to checked out rock auto for prices ? I used them for all my rear brake items. Even with shipping I'm pretty sure I was way cheaper than local parts stores.
 

Yes to all yer questions plus I would turn the new rotor once its mounted to the hub... Its not that its a bad job but very time consuming if done correctly...
 
Yes, and yes. And the wheel bearings and wheel seal, get a new one with the brake parts. Make sure you have the special socket to take the hub nut off, lay all the parts in order on a clean rag or cardboard. I always do that just to ensure it goes back together exactly the way it was. Then I clean each piece as it goes back together and pack the wheel bearings.

Ross
 
Look into on the vehicle turning. It uses the brake caliper mounting brackets and requires no disassembly !! Jim
 
If it's pulsating, the rotor is probably warped, especially since it's a dump truck. Not sure if turning would take care of that or not, you would think it would.

Ross
 
You'll take the screws out of the chrome cover, the cover will come off, there will be a splined coupling and a large spring, may be held with a snap ring. Remove all that, then there will be a couple of large nuts, jammed together. Those hold the hub on the spindle tube, also where the bearings are preloaded, a critical value when reassembling.

No telling what you'll find when this comes apart... Might be everything will clean up, and go back with new seals and fresh grease. But... Chances are there may be water damage, bad bearings, u joint problems, ball joint wear, etc. Not an area you want to shortcut or have to revisit! Just be prepared, you might want to have some extra funds ready just in case.

If the rotors have been hot and are warped, best replace them. Because they bolt on to the hubs, they won't be too expensive. The tag inside the door will give the front axle weight rating, you'll need this info to get the right parts.
 
There are actually two snap rings in there. There's an external one on the drive shaft, and an internal one on the inside of the hub. That one can be a pain, but I've found that a dental pick works good to get it started out.
Also, if it's pulsating bad, check carefully for cracks
Pete
 
Look carefully at the cooling fins on the rotors. I had one rusted so bad that the rotor collapsed and lost my brakes. From the looks of those I would replace them.
 

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