OT - Water Heater???

Kirk Grau

Member
OK, night before last had water much hotter than normal. Sometime yesterday heater just stopped working. I hadn't noticed the hotter water since I didn't need any hot water, but my wife and daughter reported it after the heater stopped. I certainly noticed the cold shower this morning. Anyway, it is 10 years old electric unit. My first inclination was to just go pick up a replacement due to age, but priced at $4-500 has me wondering if I can keep this one limping along for a bit. What/how do I need to do to do any diagnosis on this? I can tell you that it is not leaking so wondering if 2 new elements might just keep me going for a bit.

Thanks in advance,

Kirk
 

Immersion elements? Bottom element may be buried in sediment ?
The heater is getting to the age when they start leaking.
 
First check the fuses/breaker. Then make sure the elements are good. Next check the thermostat on it. I don't have time right now for step by step instructions.
 
You will probably be money and frustration ahead to just replace the elements and thermostats if you are at all mechanically inclined. You can buy the whole shebang kit and kaboodle (elements and thermostats)for around thirty dollars. TDF
 
I just did a full replacement on mine. Depending on your model, not much might be serviceable other than the elements. Turn the breaker off and take a multi-meter and test the elements. Check the resistance across the element and then also check each side to see if they're grounded to the tank itself. If they're bad, and if they're not corroded and seized up, they're not bad to change. Depending on your model you could have a single 4500 watt, and single 5500 watt, or dual's of either.

It's also possible that the thermostat has went bad, but out of the 4 or 5 I've changed in the last few years, never had one bad. Usually the elements.
 
Have you pushed the reset button? Check breaker first,then the reset. I'm thinking your bottom element might have gone and tripped the breaker or reset. It's unusual for a top element to go.
 
If it is glass lined or stainless, I would consider replacing the element that has failed 9or the thermostat that has failed (either or both is a possibility) and flushing out the residue in the bottom. If it is neither, replacing the heater may be a good option. The one in my house has had 4 elements replaced in 17 years, is not stainless or glass lined, and was 10 years old or more when I moved in. We have a really good water treatment plant 2 blocks from our house, and use Mississippi River water. Jim
 
First thing I would check is the breakers and be sure you are getting 220 to the heating elements. But first google "WATER HEATER ELEMENT- how to TEST " it's a great simple video and most good plumbing supply stores will have a replacement element in stock. I always take the old element with me to compare it to the new and as you say way cheaper than a new heater..
 
As usual you guys don't disappoint.

7-8 replies in about 10 minutes. I'm thinking for the price of an element and the simplicity, I will probably try that instead of a full replacement tonight after I get done working.

Kirk
 
One more tip I'll add. If there's a lot of lime around that bottom element,duct tape a piece of one inch black plastic pipe inside of a shop vac hose and suck it out with that.
 
cut the power--disconnect wires from elements and do a continuity check----if open element is bad--if it checks ok then your problem is in one or both of the thermostats
 
mine recently doesnt have the volume of hot water it used to im sure one the elements is bad.its over ten years old im thinking of replacing the whole thing i doubt the tank itself will out last a new set of elements before the tank ruptures somewhere.
RICK
 

I installed a new water heater in 2002. It is working just fine, but I am giving thought to replacing it sometime soon. I like my hot water. Changing out the entire unit will take about 1 hour, and I'll have hot water again in about 1 1/2 hours after I begin the process. Replacing the parts in a 15 year old water heater doesn't make sense to me.
 
About 3 months ago, my expensive water heater with all the electronic junk on it quit. Went to Lowes and got a plain Jane 40 gallon one for about $240. The energy rating on it was better than the stupid fancy one.
Richard in NW SC
 
If the water was hotter than normal, one of the thermostats maybe stuck and that would trip the reset button. I had this on the one in my shop last year. On mine it was the lower one stuck, so I unhooked the element and ran on the top one until I could replace the thermostat.
 
(quoted from post at 11:17:17 03/04/16)
Speaking of electric water heaters . Has anyone here seen the units with a heat pump to warm the water ?
hey were sold in this area years ago. Had a bad reputation pretty quick, don't know if it was defective heat exchangers or bad water but a few ruptured and ruined the heat pumps. Didn't really see many here in coastal SC.
 
I had a Sears Survivor gas hot water heater that lasted
19 years. They gave me a new 40 gallon gas water heater and said if it ever leaks they will replace it as long as I have the receipt on the Survivor. Hal
33545.jpg
 
Does it have a reset button? breaker didn't trip? Most likely that the lower unit failed. These can be difficult to get out if the bottom of the tank is full of lime. Element will twist off. I took a water hose to mine and flushed out a lot of lime. New element and up and running for now.
 
If you don't have the volume of hot water then the lower element has problems. A two element electric heater will turn on the upper first to get some water hot first. Then when the top is hot the upper will turn off and the lower will turn on. If the upper burnt out then there would be no hot water.
 
If it overheated it could be one of the elements is shorted to ground and though not at full voltage is will not shut off. Had that happen two or three times over the years. The way the thermostats are wired, one side of each element it always electrically hot.
 

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