As iv said before my brother and I have 7.3 powerstrokes in our Ford trucks, my brother runs Rotella synthetic 15-40 in his, he says it starts easier in the winter as he plows snow for people, I have used regular 15-40 I would get in 55 gallon drums made by cam 2, our use tsc brand or Rotella T, so tsc had a rebate for Rotella $5 back per gallon, well after reading the rebate it's only for the synthetic oil, well I figured I'd use that in my truck this time, I needed 5 gallons, and they only had 3, so I went back and forth between Rotella t and traveller brand, I finally just got the traveller oil, never had a problem with it in the past! I still have to go to another tsc tomorrow as this one was out of hay stretcher. Lol, they may have the synthetic oil, now I remember years ago they said not to mix synthetic with conventional oil, then a few years later they came out with a blend? Same with 2 cycle they said use one or the other, my brother uses Amsoil I use shell nautilus or stihl, but iv used his Amsoil in my saws, and went back to my mix, no problems, what do you guys prefer to use,synthetic or conventional?
- Thread starter JayinNY
- Start date
buickanddeere
Well-known Member
Sorry but I'm not sure what the question was.
T in NE
Well-known Member
- Location
- Cambridge, Nebraska
I switched the Cummins to 5-40 Valvoline synthetic. The amigo gets whatever Valvoline 10-40 I can get cheapest.
I've switched to synthetic on anything that needs to be started in the winter. The engines spin over easier and the engine gets lubrication quicker since the pump can move the synthetic that doesn't thicken up like conventional. I do not use synthetic on engines that are worn so that they burn oil as there is a cost factor there. I change oil much less often when I use synthetic, putting on at least twice as many hours or miles as specified. That puts the cost per mile nearly par with cheaper oil and with the quicker lubrication of the engine it seems like I win over time.
I have been using Walmart Super Tech conventional oil in everything for 25 years. I change between 3000 and 4000 miles. The only time I ever had a problem is when a friend of mine, who used to work at Valvoline, sent me a case of there "best" oil. Three days after I used it, the motor seized up....
typical.. '''the best'''... broke loose all of the sludge left behind from the cheap oil. And one of the oil ports clogged up from the sludge, and you had a bearing fail somewhere. Hear this story a lot when using cheap oil and then changing to a good oil. Good oils have high detergents that clean the engine and keep particles from clumping together and forming sludge. Cheap oils are full of wax and parrafins that slowly solidify and clump together on the engine, especially when you shut off the engine and the oil cools down. Your engine was a time bomb. You had high wear everywhere and on all bearing surfaces, but the sludge coated them. When the " good " oil clean up those surfaces, then the wear gap became very high and this also cause lower oil pressure due to leaking out the bearing gaps, more heat, more slapping. Your engine would have failed first time it was used hard... the good oil the gunk up and your engine simply destroyed itself...
Inherited a Toyota Camry from my Mom, we're going to give it to #2 daughter this summer or next. The manual says use 5W20 and change at 5,000 mile OT use 0W20 and change at 10,000 miles so if the synthetic is less than twice the price it's actually cheaper. The 0W20 is pricey but I hear a lot is that if the want to put the little green oval on the can saying it's certified for use in GM cars they have to pay GM money, I noticed there was quite a price difference between the stuff with the green oval and the stuff without. Thing that kinda torques me off is all the 0W20 has the green oval so to drive a Toyota I still end up funding UAW motors, next thing I know they'll be sending me a bill for retirement costs of the workers that built the '83 GMC I got rid of 16 years ago.
I don't know much about oil, but there's a lot of it here. Not a lick of synthetic has been in anything from a semi to a trim mower, ever. Our oil related engine issues are basically zero. If we ever have a problem I attribute it to age and/or years of abuse. There's mowers here with a million hours on them, trucks that have plowed snow for 20 years, all with non synthetic. I've thought about stretching maintenance intervals on some pieces and trying synthetic, then I think, it's worked for this long why change.
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