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1155 dual removal.

D

DeltaRed

Well-known Member
I went ahead and bought the 1155 that I asked about earlier. But only pd 2000 for it.I asked a lot of questions.Finally decided go for it. take a gamble.The problem seems to be the priority valve.I will do some pressure testing...... If it is a "boat anchor",I'm not out much. It will go to auction in the spring.It really is a very nice tractor. My question: it has the factory taper/wedge lock hub duals. Is there a special 'jackscrew' to push the wedge from the wheel? The regular bolts are too short and do not reach the wedge.Any special tricks?I want/need to remove the duals..Thanks,Steve
 
I'd run a 3/4 NC tap to clean the two threaded wheel holes first, then with all four bolts out put two in the threaded holes. Turn a bit on each one until wheel is pushed off the hub. No special bolts should be needed, as the four are long enough. They thread into the tapered flange to pull the wheel on. Also note the tapered hubs are directional, left and right side, wheels are the same. Be careful on replacing the wheels, and use the torque spec the manual calls for, I've seen the cast wheels split because bubba got carried away.
 
The threads bottom out a full half inch before the bolt makes contact with the wedge.I was wondering if there was a special 'jackscrew' similar to the one a JohnDeere uses.I guess I'll just make a couple of dowels to 'bridge the gap'.
 
Hi What ever you do don't snap the bolts off in the holes, The 1135 I had here some clown had snapped 2 off in one wheel and one in the other.In the end I had to jack against the cab mount to get pressure on the wheel. Then use a big crow bar and 14 Lb hammer to break the tension on the taper. As others said chase the threads before you start, I wish the last guy had done that with the one I had after some words and about 5 hours.
 
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