Question about Deeres

Hi all,

First of all, I want to say I am a dyed in the wool IH man. I have ran them most of my life, with some others interspersed. However, I started out on a '37 JD A.
That's been a long time ago. I remember that it didn't have electric start, and I don't remember liking the hand clutch much.

Fast forward to the present...

I have found locally a '47 A with elec. start and also a '53 60. The A is in better shape than the 60, but the 60 is a bit cheaper. Both are in good running
shape.

So my question is this: what should I be looking for on each machine? I know the usual about how easy it starts, tire condition, brakes, etc. I'm just wondering
if there is anything special to look out for.
I'd appreciate any help I could get. I'm going to look at each of them tomorrow, so I'd like to be prepared.

Thanks, Mac

I don't know what use you intend for the tractor, but the 60 will have live hydraulics and independent PTO, which might make it a lot handier at times.

47A has a stamped steel frame need to check for cracks or welds. check water pumps for leaks or stop leak. the 60 will weigh more than the A. 801 hitch would make one more desireable.

The A and 60 could be very different or very similar ,, the purpose you have for it may help determine which you want more.

Are you sure you want to go with a Deere and hand clutch ?
The 60 will have live hyd. and could have live pto and power steering if optioned that way.
I'd look close at the head and block for evidence of cracks and or repairs. Loose clutch driving disc shows up more often on those models. Engine off ,engage clutch, then grab the pulley by hand and try rotating it back and forth. Any loose movement on the crankshaft is not good.

Good point. I will be using the tractor mostly for pulling work, like spreader, firewood trailer, etc. Some brush hogging, but as they set neither have a 3pt hitch. I understand that adding a 3pt to these isn't too hard, but is pricey. I also assume that they will compare HP wise to my 300 (with 350 spec eng.).

Thank you all very much.

Mac

No Mike, I'm not really sure at this point. I'm unsure about the hand clutch for certain, and also both of these have a narrow front, and I have some steep hills. In my area, row crop tractors in good shape are hard to find, and for my purposes, I prefer them over the utility types. I have a 2000 Ford, that is a utility. I'm not satisfied with it at all. Sits too low to the ground and not enough power. No live pto either. So, I use my IH more. I tend to like the ride on the row crops better, as the longer wheel base makes them ride smoother, along with weighing half again what the utility does.
Mostly, this is a nostalgia thing. I swapped that '37 A off for an M a long time ago, and now wish I had it back for nothing more than sentimental reasons. But, unstyled A's are hard to find here. And when you do find them they're super high, even in non-running shape. These two tractors are supposed to run good. The A is currently being used on a local farm pulling a brush hog. The 60 was used this spring for some disking and hasn't been run much since then. That's pretty much what I know at this moment.

Mac

That A could be the cast frame all fuel engine only and be a 6 volt system with battery under hood and likely only power lift, no power trol and 29 MAX PTO HP. Or it could be a stamped steel frame in either a gas or all fuel engine, The gas would still have the 2 fuel tanks of the all fuel and the all fuel is same power as the earlier version or it could be the gas engine at 38 HP and 12 volt system with battery under seat and possibly have roll-a-matic front. It could have either the power lift or more likely the power trol that will work a remote cylinder and you would want that as you would want a pull type mower as front ends of all 2 cylinder models is to light for picking up a mounted bush hog mower. Either A will have the 2 stick high speed tranny as the single stick normal speed (speeds 1-4 equal to a Farmal H or M) The 2 stick low is equal to second in those Farmals. The single stick A did not come out untill either 50 or 51. 2 stick better for tractor drives as it is faster but single is better for everything else. The 60 is on gas a 41 HP tractor, not sure on all fuel as have never seen a 60 all fuel. But the speeds would be equal to the single stick A or those Farmals. Better tractor for what you are talking. And I liked that hand clutch. Had 2 Deeres, 38 A, 46 B, 49 B, 50 AR & 51 A and a 41 Farmal H. Only thing bad about the hand clutch is backing something up and they have a faster reverce that those Farmalls.

On those hand clutch tractors as you find most of them the linkages are all sloppy and worn out. Rebuilding the linkage and tightening up all the worn out areas REALLY HELPS make the clutch more controllable. Plus can save your knee cap !

jacksun65,
Not all 47A's had stamped steel frames. Early 47 had cast steel frame. Late 47 had stamped steel frame when the switchover to Late-Styled occurred. Late-Styled A's didn't have factory installed water pumps until ser# 700200 in 1952.

For having that many Deeres how did you get mixed up on 12v as the A never had it also the Deeres has 6 speeds.

Bundle them up and get both!

Based on your stated use for the tractor (pulling work, spreader, and bush hogging), my choice would be the Model 60.

As [b:654c4848f0]Mike M[/b:654c4848f0] mentioned below "[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]The 60 will have live hyd. and could have live pto and power steering if optioned that way.[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]"

Live hydraulics and live PTO are a definite advantage when mowing.

Power steering also has its' advantages in certain situations such as "backing" trailers.

Hope this helps.

The late A's with pressed steel frame and battery under the seat WERE 12 VOLT + grd. from the factory. The models before this were 6 volt with the battery in the hood extensions.

With the engine off, engage the clutch several times and watch for end play on both ends of the crankshaft. The flywheel may move in and out, or the belt pulley may move in and out. That is an indication that the splines are probably worn from the flywheel or clutch hub being loose at some time. If you find that to be the case, run away, don't walk and don't look back!

No 1953 model 60's were factory built with the optional power steering.
The live hydraulics , duplex carb and the possibility of live Pto easily makes the 60 the better choice.

All the cast frame could have been either 4 or 6 speeds depending on if sold on steel or rubber but I was talking about the 1st to 4th speeds as compaired to the Farmall first to 4th, The Deere if 6 speed tranny have a 5th speed that the Farmalls have nothing to compair in speed unless the Farmall has the rare optional 9 speed tranny. The high speed tranny of the 2 stick models 6th in the Deere will compair to 5th in the farmall, the single stick Deere 6th will be slower than the 5th in the Farmall. Better load pulling in high but not as fast empty for road use as the 2 stick model. I do not know if the pressed frame 2 stick models were avaible on steel with 4 speeds or not. And the 6 speed was first avaible on 1941 models A & B. if sold on rubber, could have been sold as a 4 speed tractor for steel with a rubber option. All A,s 40 and down only had 4 speed with a 2 stick transmission. I do not know if late 47 to 1949 AR were 6 volt or 12 volt systems as they were still a unstyled tractor. Or if they were avaible in the gas version or not. And for brush hoging you might need the slower low gear of the single stick models or the 60. With the pressed steel frame the A was switched to 12 volt because the 6 volt did not have the power to crank a gas compression engine. The B was still kept at 6 volt as they did not need the extra power to crank of the A. If the lower compression all fuel tractors were converted to gas with parts from later gas tractors then you needed to convert to 12 volt for them to crank. And all the cast frame tractors could have been bought as hand start only with no battery or generator.

Tractor data says the 300 is 38 HP while the 350 is 39 HP at one place and 42 at anouther, so close to gas A at 38 or 60 at 41HP. The front end of the Farmall will be heavier than either Deere if you do put a 3 point on them to keep the front wheels on the ground, I would not want a 3 point on a Deere unless I was only using it for a rear blade. And then you would have to have power troll to get varring height of the 3 point, the power lift is only up or down, no stopping in the middle. For to put a 3 point brush hog on either Deere you would need to fabricate some front weights. Now any of them could have after market power steering added. The A's could have later live hydrolicks added as well.

With that bassakwards hand clutch I would leave them both and run fast not looking back and get an M or more like a 756 will have better hydraulics,power steering and Much handier to use than those sorry hand clutch Deeres.

Nothing bassakwards about that clutch. Push to go and pull to stop. And that hand clutch is one of the good parts about the Deeres. When they went away from that they lost customers.

Mac, We had a few old JD's when I was a kid.
Hand cranking and hand clutch is the reason I don't have one today. The JD M has a foot clutch and electric start, but low on HP.
I love my mom's 1950 Farmall C, electric start, foot clutch and the Monroe easy ride seat.
Not to mention the tricycle front end and woods belly mower is a great combo. Has to be the most overlooked ZTR's.

That hand clutch is one reason why I did not have more Farmalls, rather for most work have the hand clutch, only for like loader work is a foot clutch better.

When it comes to loader work, I want an HST, not a clutch. I hate grabbing for gears and running loader controls. One hand for steering, one hand for loader controls and foot the HST to slowly push forward while I'm getting a bucket full. We all like something different. Doesn't mean one is better, just meant we have different choices to pick from.