Leaking well tank surging water with bubbles

Ok I have never messed around with a well tank before but I bet there are some smart folks on here that have! Here are the symptoms that have just started happening. 1) Noticed very fine air bubbles in our tap water when filling up a glass (think carbonated soda appearance)2) Noticed surging of water when running showers/washer ect. 3) Went downstairs and watched the pressure valve fluctuate between 40 and 60 PSI cycling the pump very a lot instead of filling up the tank like it used to. Water was all over the floor and coming out of the top of the tank in a dribble at times by the air valve connection and I could see air coming out where I am pointing in the picture. The well tank is a well mate UT-80. It has an internal bladder that goes down the middle of the tank. I have never messed with one of these before. I have rebuilt tractors but not well pressure tanks? Call a plumber or tackle this myself??? Any help/advice is appreciated.
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First of where is the water leaking from?? If it is ;leaking out of the tank time to replace the tank. The surging is caused by not having enough air in the tank or bladder which ever type you have. If the tank is leaking it is not all that hard to remove the old tank and install a new tank. I do all my own well stuff including pulling the pump but I have my well house set up to be friendly to repairs
 
I just replaced mine last week. If water is coming out around the air valve the bladder has a hole in it and that is why your pump is short cycling (which is also hard on the electric bill). Not a big deal to change but the tank will be very heavy due to being full of water. My tank was much smaller and still a hand full with the water in it.

Mark
 
First you have to stop the air leak, then you can inflate the bladder. Do you know what psi you are supposed to inflate the bladder to? If you over-inflate, the bladder can burst and you will have to replace the tank and all.
 
two things. 1. your tank is waterlogged and you can try to drain off some water and repressurise it. I don't think that will solve the problem.
2. shut off the power and replace the tank with a new pressure tank. It doesn't look like there is a shutoff valve between the incoming water line and the tank so you will have to cut the pvc pipe and then put on a slip connection to the new tank.
 
I believe that Well Mate is Lowes brand. Some of those have a replacable bladder,should be able to find out online. Chances are will have to disconnect the whole thing to drain it any way,so you might as well check replacement vs. repair. Inflate to 2 pounds below cut in pressure. I see you have good access and all plastic. If you are at all handy there is no reason not to do it yourself.
 
I just went through that. My tank was waterlogged. I goggled it. I drained the tank and added 28lbs of air. Two lbs less then my 30-50 pressure switch as instructed. Turned it back on and has been working right since. The pump kicks on at 30# and off at 50#. It was kicking on and off every time I tried to draw water. My tank was replaced a couple of years ago so its fairly new. Your bladder in your tank may be bad and you may need to replace the tank. One way to tell if water is coming out with the air when you check your pressure.
 
Mine is only 7 years old, but I am getting water out of the 90 degree white fitting. I don't see a tire valve there to add air.
 
Please shut the pump down ASAP and get the tank replaced/fixed, short cycling the pump will burn it out quick. Don't ask how I know.
 
There is a rubber membrane between the air and water. The membrane prevents air from being compressed into the water making it fizz. Replacement of the tank is the only real solution. (based on your indication of water at the top fitting, and surging pump) Do not continue to use the system as the continuous restarting will ruin the pump.
 
Like pitch said, that could be a replaceable bladder, that might be the reason for the large nut on top. somehow you should be able to add some air to stop the short-cycling and use it until you have a better plan. But you have to fix the leak too.
 

I was going to go along with the others that say replace it, but looking at the parts diagram that Steve posted, and re-reading your initial post, I can see that it does have a replaceable bladder down the middle. From the parts diagram it appears that sliding the red plastic clip out will release the bladder, and allow you to pull it out. The pressure would have to be released first of course, and half the water drained out. You can probably find the tank model and order a new bladder. you may get instructions for replacement with a new bladder and you should get a new sealing O-ring too. I would release the water pressure and see if the red plastic clip will slide out readily, and it may be self explanatory after that. It looks like a good quality unit that should serve you for many more years without rusting out like most of them do.
 
Well if you can plumb the hyds on a tractor you can replace that tank your self. Big problem with most wells here in MO they are hard piped so to pull a pump you need the correct equipment to do so. When I had my well drilled I set the pump my self and used black plastic pipe and have a simple boat trailer winch mounted above it and the pump is on a rope. With two people I can have the pump up and out in under 30 minutes
 

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