O/T Pickup Box Weight

Figure on four guys or hook cargo straps diagonally in the stake pockets and lift it with a chain hoist.
 
300 to 350 pounds sounds about right.

When I used to rebuild a lot of pickups, I got two 12' 4X6's and bolted them against the sides of the bucket on the loader on my H Farmall to stick out like forklift forks. (36" wide, hydraulic tilt bucket). Then cut a couple of 2X6's the right length to fit crossways under the edges of the box. Stick the 4X6's in the box like forklift forks with the 2X6's across on top of them, one in front, the other in the rear of the box. Then simply pick the box straight up.

I got so I could paint a box and cab separately and then set the box back on without contacting the two. In fact, I did it once with the back bumper still on the pickup.
 
Several years ago I sold my 1990 GMC 3/4 ton for scrap, less the steering wheel and coloum, tailgate, battery, radiator, and fluids it weighed 3580 pounds.
 
Does this question have anything to do with the gas tank repair you are asking about in another thread? As far as pulllng the bed to replace the tank it really gains you nothing except easier access. Taking the bed off to replace the fuel pump instead of dropping the tank is sometimes a "horse a piece" labor wise. However I believe you said you are in Michigan so if this truck spent much time on the salted highways, removing those bed bolts will not be an easy task. Bottom line is that if you are thinking of pulling the bed to fix or replace a leaking tank in my opinion you are just creating more work for yourself.
 
Take the bolts out on the tank side, loosen the opposite side. One guy, or a guy with a jack can tip the box up and block it in place. Easy access to tank. Changed fuel pump on '99 3/4T long box, by myself, in just over an hour. Much easier than removing the box and trying to get it lined up to put it back.
 
I recently changed the fuel gauge sender on my 02 GMC long box. I did as others have mentioned. I took the bolts holding the box on the left side out, and loosened the right side till only a few threads were holding. unbolted the filler neck, and hooked a come-along to the ladder rack. I pulled sideways till the box lifted high enough to work, added blocking for safety, and did the job. Easy.
Tim in OR
 
Yes, it does. Thinking lifting the box will make it easier to disconect the hoses and wires to the fuel pum and also the filler neck. Without a hoist, lying on your back trying to do it would seem to be an extremely difficult task. Also I will probably doing this job myself.
 
I replaced the fuel pump in a 94 Chevy pickup in the parking lot of a truck stop in Idaho by dropping the tank. The tank was a good half full too. Not fun at all but the box was plumb full of tools, jacks, blocks etc. so dropping the tank was the lesser of the two evils. I don't want to do it that way again.
 
Pulling the box off or at least sliding it back three feet will make the tank work much better- go by the bolt success- IF they come out with an impact wrench, then go for it, if not, leave it in place and drop the tank.

I developed a leak in the line between the tank and frame, hired the step son of a coworker who had just graduated from mechanics school and needed work. Figured might as well replace the pump and sender since the line needed to come off. He swapped two of the lines somehow, the vent line and the return from the throttle body, I think. Very soon I was having trouble with gas in the charcoal canister, enough that the motor would run with the key on. The extra gas in the canister was being sucked into the manifold by the vacuum.
 

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