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Replacing the drive belt on a JD 47" snow blower?

I

IaLeo

Well-known Member
I posted this on garden tractor board also.

Any one here have one? How do you change the drive belt?

Looks like one would have to disassemble a good share of the blower to install a new belt. I bought a pair of new belts thinking that if that happens on my third year, I better have spares. Then to get out the battered but whole old belt I nearly had a stroke. : ) It was badly jammed between the drive pulley rim and a no jump keeper.
I left the battered belt in place after beating and prying, further injuring it. Hope it gets me through the next snow.

Design appears to be cost savings, not repair friendly.

Leo
 
What model of tractor are you running the JD 47 blower on??? I am most familiar with the 300-400 series mowers and they do not use two belts to drive them.
 
I'm with jd, not sure wha'tcha got, so tell us the model @ of the tractor and the blower.
 
Is this a walk-behind thrower? If so, it has a model number and you will get a lot better information if you provide that.
 
Your a little short on info. but you could do a red one in 5 minutes.
a246037.jpg
 
If its just a regular v type belt, try a power twist belt. Its a segmented fan belt made up of removable links. Cut the old belt off and thread the
power twist on, remove as many links to get the correct length and clip the ends together. I just put one on my farmall m to run the alternator
and ps pump.
 
Sorry, I did not give details...the snowblower is mounted on a JDX534 AWS tractor. This is a vert. shaft 20 hp equipped engine. the PTO is horizontal beneath. Snow blower is driven with a belt, apparently permanently locked in the snow blower driving a horizontal sheave on a gearbox. The belt always stays with the blower when detaching the blower. the blower has one spring loaded idler and one fixed idler causing the belt to wrap almost 300 degrees around the driven sheave. My problem is that this blower works well---for two seasons so far. This season, I may have caused a twist when I hooked it up, but that is almost impossible to do...very simple hook up. I think the wrapping idlers were not aligned (in plane) with the driven sheave and that hasseled the belt. When unjamming the existing belt, I made sure the idlers were shimmed better to feed and return the belt better.
Now I worry about the existing belt lasting. I depend on this expensive machine to clear the 300 foot driveway to be able to get out in emergencies to go to doctors, etc. Leo
 
They are not impossible to change, but not easy either, I believe you have to do some unbolting to avoid bending things. If you can't figure
it out you may have to call some professional help.
 
i had to add an idler on my m for the power steering pump, and its on the back side. seems to be ok so far.
 
IALeo: The blower drive you have is a real pain to change the belt in. YOU have to drop the gearbox and mounting down to get the new belt in. I talked with the local tech on this and he told me it can take him up to an 1 1/2 to 2 hours to change one. WOW that would be several Hundred dollars in labor.

Here is a parts break down. You can see how it is bolted together.

PS the lawn tech said most guys trade the mower and blower in to avoid the cost of changing the belt. He says most salesman do know enough to catch the bad belt. LOL
43516.jpg
 
Thanks all and especially JD Seller. I was astounded at the simple task of changing the belt and I am still a bit puzzled at the shaft connection on the far side of the gearbox, I hope it is a slip fit something or other. I am not much of a wrencher, my biggest failing is remembering where and what order the parts go! : )

As a designer for awhile at JD, we pencil pushers used to make sick jokes about putting bolts where no wrench could reach--I guess what goes around comes around!!

Leo
 
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