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Sediment Bowl Leak

L

loucksgl

Member
I know this issue has been beat to death and the fixes are obvious, but I've tried it all and can't stop the leaking bowl. PS: I have owned a BMW Motorcycle shop back in the eighties and have repaired and repaired and repaired but I've not run across anything as diabolically evil as this leaking bowl ever. Its nuts! I sold all my tech tools over the years and can't measure the bowl or the mating surface for distortion. I tried gaskets and O rings for the old assembly and finally gave up. Then I ordered a brand new unit from Yesterday's Tractors and it leaked new out of the box. I bought cork gasket material and methodically cut two perfect gaskets with an exacto knife. Tried the bowl with one gasket and it leaked. Put two gaskets in and the leak started after 60 seconds. No chips out of the edge of the glass bowl. No rough edges on metal mating surface. Screen isn't an issue. Took it out. Are these sediment bowl units junk reproduction or what? I'm ready to push the tractor out in the field under the maple tree. 1953, T0 30 Continental Eng.
 
Are you absolutely sure it is the bowl leaking, and not a crack in the tank, or the fitting, or a seam leaking? Gas leaks can hide in odd places and travel.
 
After many attempts to stop a leak, I found a small crack in the bottom of the glass bowl. I use a non hardening sealer called Molykote 111 on the gasket.
 
Most of my problems with the sediment bowl has been customers who install the bowl then use pliers to tighten the thumb screw on the bail, thus warping the fixture.
 
(quoted from post at 10:46:51 02/27/17) Are you absolutely sure it is the bowl leaking, and not a crack in the tank, or the fitting, or a seam leaking? Gas leaks can hide in odd places and travel.
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Working with two seperate units here. New gaskets both units, switched the glass bowls around. Used neoprene gasket and even cut a gasket out of cork. Went to store and bought cork gaskets a bit thicker that fit absolutely perfectly. The leak hesitated for a full minute and then it slowly started again.. amazing. I'm finger tightening the hold down nut on the glass bowl. I want to buy a shut off valve like I have on my motorcycle. Just a plain on off valve. I've had it with this sediment bowl stuff. I have a shut off valve (pet Cock) but its metric threads.
 
(quoted from post at 12:02:56 02/27/17) Most of my problems with the sediment bowl has been customers who install the bowl then use pliers to tighten the thumb screw on the bail, thus warping the fixture.
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You are correct, but I have found that pliers are needed to get it tight enough. There is a very small "sweet spot" between not tight enough and so tight that things get warped.
 


I replied below to one comment about the two separate shut off valves I'm using. Switched bowls and gaskets and still leaks. This is nuts! I'm not the most dim bulb on the ceiling by any means but this is just plain nuts. Simple mechanics and I can't make it work. The glass edge is (perfectly flat). Checked it on a thick glass counter top. So that should press firmly and evenly on the cork gasket. I can't check the body fitment to the bowl for obvious reasons. A quality gasket should do it. I do notice that the glass bowls have a relief cut to the inside edge of the bowl as if an O ring should sit in that relief. But the new unit was shipped to me with a flat neoprene gasket of questionable thickness. I suspect these knock off parts are simply junk.....
 
Put a thin coat of grease on both sides of the gasket. Also if the tank has any rust in it, put a small magnet in the bottom of the sediment bowl.
 
I have a TO 35 and had the same problem. drove me crazy. bought the new sediment bowl at TSC and went thru the same problems you had. Used Teflon on the stem, pipe dope etc. to no avail. Fortunately while looking at the bowl from the opposite side of the tractor I saw a second output for a fuel line. That where is was leaking from. All I had to do was tighten it a bit and all was fine. That little leak ran its way by the stem for the shut off value and would have never figured it out. Hope its that simple for you.
 
(quoted from post at 15:55:47 02/27/17) I have a TO 35 and had the same problem. drove me crazy. bought the new sediment bowl at TSC and went thru the same problems you had. Used Teflon on the stem, pipe dope etc. to no avail. Fortunately while looking at the bowl from the opposite side of the tractor I saw a second output for a fuel line. That where is was leaking from. All I had to do was tighten it a bit and all was fine. That little leak ran its way by the stem for the shut off value and would have never figured it out. Hope its that simple for you.
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You may have it. The gas is always washing down the back side of the glass come to think of it. Always. I'll run out to the barn right now and check that. Odd that both units would have that issue but I'll check it out. Thanks again.
 
Everything above the sediment bowl is dry as a bone. Nothing. Its the glass. One cork gasket leaks right away. If I stack two the leak starts in about a minute. Its nuts. The metal body gotta be warped. The glass is true flat. Put it on a glass counter. Perfect.. I've never seen the like.....
 

Good idea but that ain't it. Just tried. I really think I have a gas shut off valve and bowl with a bad metal casting. Thats all I can think of. Shame on the manufacturer. I'm reading of these sediment bowl horrors everywhere.
 
This is definitely leaking around the gasket. I have two different bowls and the both leak at the gasket even with brand new cork gaskets. Maybe a fat O ring would conform to any deformity. I can't keep going through new valves.
 
I went thru 4 new sediment bowls that all leaked. Very fustrating to say the least. Bowl no. 5 does not leak yet, maybe soon ? All were junk imports, could not get any made here.
One did not have the outlet port threaded, just a smooth hole. GRRRRR.... Next tank will have a pipe and shutoff valve plus an inline filter. clint
 
You have probably done this already, when you are tightening give the glass bowl a few slight twists right before it gets tight to help seat the gasket. It sometimes helps but not always. I just fought one the other day where twisting and turning the bowl did not help seat the gasket. I finally got out the pliers and ever so carefully tightened and wiggled till the drip stopped. I have better luck with cork gaskets. The neoprene gaskets seem to be too hard even new out of the box though they might vary in softness between brands.
 
(quoted from post at 21:44:32 02/27/17) You have probably done this already, when you are tightening give the glass bowl a few slight twists right before it gets tight to help seat the gasket. It sometimes helps but not always. I just fought one the other day where twisting and turning the bowl did not help seat the gasket. I finally got out the pliers and ever so carefully tightened and wiggled till the drip stopped. I have better luck with cork gaskets. The neoprene gaskets seem to be too hard even new out of the box though they might vary in softness between brands.
Click to expand...
just ordered a pipe and shut off valve from Ebay last night. i can't go through this. If I gotta remove and dump the glass bowl what will happen? Gotta start this ordeal all over again. Might be in the field. No. I'll put a direct shut off on the tank just like my motorcycle has. Hefty filter directly below it.
 
Thanks for the reply. I have tried every conceivable way to stop this leak and am convinced that the metal opening that mates to the glass bowl is warped. It has to be. The gasket is new, cork and perfect, the glass opening on the bowl is flat across all areas. Only thing left is the metal mating surface. Just plain junk reproduction parts. If a fella had to take the bowl off in the field for some reason and then had to reinstall - the thing would be a bear to stop a leak. I'd just set the tractor on fire and quit. I'd pay triple for a quality part that works to design. I really would. This junk should be refused by venders. A direct Ford shut off valve will be on that gas tank Sat afternoon.
 
If it isn't too late, try a fat O ring. I had one that always dripped, and an O ring cured it. Most O ring kits you buy now are gas
resistant. Mine has been in there for a couple of years with no problem.
 
I got the sediment bowl to stop leaking, at least while the engine isn't running and vibrating. Out of a wild guess and desperation, I put gasoline and a tiny bit of motor oil in a jar lid and threw a new cork gasket in and let it soak all day. I then wiped off the gasket with paper towel and pushed it up into place, then inserted the glass bowl and wound the nut up with my fingers. I put only enough pressure on the glass to snug it up. While doing this process I gently rotated the glass bowl left and right until the pressure from tightening the nut snugged it into place. Turned the gas on and it doesn't leak. Don't know what will happen when the vibration from engine starts but she's not leaking now.
 
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