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log splitter build opinions

gears

gears

Member
So I ordered a 28gpm 2 stage pump, got a 15.5hp Kohler to repower an old home-made splitter and it looks like I'll be better off building from scratch. I planned on reusing the old (rebuilt) 4&1/2" x 22" cylinder. That should push 23 tons of splitting power.

Then, my dad picks up a 6" cylinder and proudly gives it to me for the build. 42 tons! But the catch is the stroke of this one is only 17" (advertised so 16& change).

Do I use the shorter cylinder but make a push block to slip in there for longer pieces that need shoved the whole way through the wedge? Or do I shelve the 6" and stick with the longer stroke 4.5"

I only use this thing on the piles of gnarly stuff the monster maul bounces off of (Big sugar maple, pin-oak, elm).

Opinions please, thanks.
 
I had a homemade unit years ago with a short cylinder. Not going there again. I
vote for the cylinder eith the long stroke.
 
Of course you'd give up speed by going to the big diameter cylinder, but that's quite a pump you have. Is there a way you could build it so you could use either cylinder?
 
Hello gears,

Longer stroke hands down. I had a 14" on mine and I used a 4x4 to push the longer ones. What a pain!!
I then put an 18x4 on it, and 21" from the retracted point to the wedge. Give yourself at least 20" and
you will do just fine. Also my wedge is slanted. If I put a square on the top of the beam and touch the
bottom of the wedge( mine is 10" or 12" inches), the top will have a gap of 1 or 2 inches. I can get you
a picture if you want. Progressive slicing into the wood sure makes the splitter work less. With that
much HP and two stage pump, you will do just fine! They are welding the wedges now the way I have mine
on the new splitters. Should have patented I guess,

Guido.<p
 
Use a wider wedge. I have a 22" stroke
cylinder and a 4" wide wedge. The log never
makes it to the end of the stroke unless it
is elm. Not much of that left around me.
Only a 4" bore, but splits everything I have
ever put on it.
 
Longer stroke for sure, sounds like your wedge is on the beam and not the cylinder rod, that would not work well on the elm around here. I have done a lot of elm and between looking the block over to line up the best spot for the wedge, the stringy grain, on a splitter orientated with the wedge on beam, they do get stuck. I've used both types, and it is a matter of preference for anyone doing this work just the same, boy can they get hung up.

That is quite the pump for sure, over double what my huskee 28 ton has. I would be careful on speed, I am never in a hurry using one of these and although I'd like more GPM and a little faster cycle time, too fast may not be as safe, again, matter of preference.

Sounds like a fun build, best of luck with it, post a shot when done, always great to see these, they're all different !
 
Go for the longer stroke! I had one once with a cylinder with a 19" stroke off of a motor grader. I was forever setting a block of wood back off of it and sawing another inch or so off the end.
 
What size of stove or boiler are you feeding ??? Match your splitter to your needs, unless you plan to sell firewood- for other applications.
Loren
 
A 23 ton splitter seems like enough to me. I'd like a table on each side of the beam to save wrestling with the big split pieces.
 
What is the normal length of the blocks you want to split?
How much pressure does your pump make?
If it were me I would build vertical beam with a large working table.
 
Any pics would be great. I've been researching the heck out of this - I'd rather do it once.

I decided on a 3pt mount so I won't have to lend it out (last one needed fixed 'cause the neighbor wanted to use it....). I like the wedge on the end of the beam so it can dump off there and not bury me splitting.

Current setup has the wedge inclined towards the ram, opposite Guido's suggestion, contemplating a 4-way drop on too.

A catch table and log lift aren't out of the question. I'm thinking of making a common mount so I could swap the 6" out if it's too problematic.

I'm burning in my soapstone stove, 20" max length home heating. No plans to sell firewood (or buy either), I help people out when they have stuff taken down - I come collect the stumps and bring em home on a trailer.

I thought about a tilt mount but lifting them with the FEL and keeping them where I don't have to bend over make my back happier.

I'll be sure to post as I build this. Thanks for all the feedback!
 
I bought a 3 1/2 X 24 when I built mine, it's run off the tractor hydraulics, mounted on the 3-point. I went with the smaller diameter for
more speed, and I'm glad I did, as the tractor only puts out 12 gpm wot, and I only run it about 2/3. It has only failed to split once in 8
years,on an elm crotch, and all I had to do was flip the block around and it split fine from the other end. It only figures out to about 12
ton but it has always done what I need.
 
A picture of mine. HF used to sell one that had a trunnion mount cylinder so it didn't stick out so far, wish I would've done that. If you
make one like this make the upright top link bracket taller, mine doesn't stay level when I raise and lower it. I use a come-along to hang
it on the wall in my shed when I'm not using it, sheds are never big enough.
a172354.jpg
 
I make planks, the middle can be a twisted mess or not too bad, but like you say, its an effective way to deal with a lot of elm. The stringy pieces ignite quickly too. Also keep a hatchet within reach to sever the stubborn "strings". Most other wood you can get those by hand, not elm, hatchet is a must have.
 
A couple of other ideas: I, too, wanted tractor power, to keep the splitter home. I built mine specifically for my SC Case. Tail wheel off an old 1 wheel trailer, large cylinder, because at the time, Dutch Elm was going thru and plenty of that to split. Waist high platform, no bending while splitting. I used a pump off an old grain truck and direct drive using the tractor pto. Pump is mounted high because of the SC's high pto. It is slot mounted though so it can lowered quickly for other applications. Works really well. Tractor is 12 volt with a distributor, always quickly starts, even on those -20? days. Tractor splits great, just off idle so no screaming small engine, easily reved up for those nastys. The pump could be geared up with a couple of sprockets, but the older I get, I find it splits just fine.
<image src="http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/photos/mvphoto3688.jpg"/>
 
Hello gears,

Here is my splitter with the old 14" Cylinder. Old girl with the new 4" cylinder is still doing a good job, More then 30 years later,

Guido.
a172393.jpg
 
Thanks Guido, I see what you mean about the block.

Here's the beginning of the power unit for mine, motor mounted so the exhaust is facing away from the operator, fuel tank and motor will be covered by craftsman tractor hood. This will be mounted to the beam, I figure a tripod mount so I can drop it off the tractor and still use it.

I think I'm going to build the mount so I can swap the 6" out for the 4.5" if stroke is an issue.
3720.jpg
 
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