Tie down question

On our Ford 640, can I put an eye bolt through one of theses holes in front axle ? I don't want to break anything , thanks

Steady pressure on metal is less destructive than sudden impacts. I doubt that you can break anything by tightening a binder to a reasonable amount of "tightness". The tire will act as a shock absorb er also. So go for it.

Yes sir, I?ve seen others do it, not myself though. I use wide ratchet straps and just bring one across the front brush guard. The YT police wouldn?t like my technique as some say there should be straps or chains at all four corners, I do chain my backhoe at all corners but my tractors are just strapped across front brush guard, belly of the tractor(across transmission) and across implement, total of three straps used. Probably opened up a can of worms by stating that here but that?s how everybody hauls them around here. But the eyebolt would be okay for a tie down point...

Ok for Downward pressure.
Do not pull forward on it. You can break the radius rod socket. BTDT Not Fun!
Keith

A standard eye bolt that is split is no good for tie downs because they will spread. You could weld it I suppose, but I wouldn't trust it.

Grandpa, do you know what an eye nut is? I get them from my power company pals all the time, I?ve used them for tie down points on several trailers I?ve built over the years. I?ll walk down to the barn in few minutes and take pictures, the power company eye nuts will handle all the stress you can put on it

Wouldn't you have to get it rated by the YTDOT For (WLL) Working Load limit? :wink: :wink:

Grayrider, you strap em like I do. Just wondering if there was a better idea....

You can get several sizes from power company workers, they give them to me, I went out to my barn and screwed one on axle bolt of my 8N to show you
Mother Nature is harsh on power poles and connections so there is no telling how strong these eye nuts are, I?ve used them for years, and get them free

The eye nuts that I mount on my trailers are permanently mounted, used a longer bolt screwed through and out in to the eye then screwed a nut on and welded the nut to bolt since I don?t ever intend to remove them from trailer.
On your tractor you could just screw them on to your axle bolts and take a rod or piece of pipe inserted through eye nut and tighten the crap out of them

You could use a hook as well

And yes the ytdot and the real dot check on the spec of what
ever it is you? use for tie downs If is not marked it
automatically downgrades to the lowest rating available

We have a friend that works for power co. Time to pay him a visit!

Tighten her down I got three extra front axles if you break one.
Ron

Check your eye bolt to these specs in order to get YT DOT approval:


Forged Eye Bolt Capacity and Strength Calculator has been developed to show rated load capacities, proof load and breaking strength of a selected forged threaded eye bolt.

The Calculator uses the load charts of forged eye bolts which are given in the ASME B18.15 and ASTM A 489 - 04 standards.

Some important notes from the ASME B18.15:

- Capacities are for carbon steel ASTM A 489 eye bolts, at temperatures between 30°F (-1°C) and 275°F (135°C).

- Loads must always be applied to eye bolts in the plane of the eye, not at an angle.

- Plain eyebolts must be engaged to within one-half turn from the eye end of the threads to get rated capacities given by the calculator.

- Shoulder eye bolts should bear firmly against the mating part; otherwise the rated capacity must be reduced to ones given for plain eye bolts

- To attain the rated capacities given by the calculator, minimum thread shank length of engagement must be as follows:

-- Steel - 1 thread diameter,

-- Cast iron, brass, bronze - 1.5 thread diameter,

-- Aluminum, magnesium, zinc, plastic - 2 thread diameters

- Tapped holes for plain pattern (straight shank) eye bolts are threaded for the full length of eyebolt engagement. Tapped holes for shoulder pattern eyebolts are threaded for the full length with clearance for the unthreaded portion of the eyebolt to allow shoulder seating.

- For through-hole applications, long length eye bolts with shoulder are advised, using a steel washer and nut with the required thread engagement.

Calculator:

INPUT PARAMETERS
Nominal eye bolt size (inches)
Eye Bolt Type
Plain Pattern Eye Bolts
Shoulder Pattern Eye Bolts




Forged Eye Bolt Capacities
RESULTS
Parameter Value Unit
Nominal Size --- -
Thread Size ---
Eye Bolt Type ---
Breaking Strength, min --- lbf
Proof Load, min ---
Rated Capacity @ 0 deg. ---
Rated Capacity @ 30 deg. ---
Rated Capacity @ 60 deg. ---
Rated Capacity @ 90 deg. ---

Note : Proof load is calculated as 2 times the rated capacity in straight pull (0 degrees).
Note : NR - Not Recommended

Definitions:
Breaking Strength: The breaking strength shall be determined by screwing the lifting eye to the full thread engagement into a block secured in one jaw of the testing machine and held to the other jaw by means of a mandrel passing through the eye.

Proof Load: The load that can be exerted without causing permanent deformation exceeding 0.01 in. (0.255 mm) between small puncture wound punch marks at opposite ends of the diameter across the eye.

Rated Capacity: The maximum recommended load that should be applied on the lifting eye. All rated capacities, unless otherwise noted, are for in-line pull with respect to the center line of the eye bolt.

I use straps, dont tell anybody, and just loop the strap over the axle bringing the hook underneath and then on top of the bumper bracket.

Showcrop,
You must work for NASA, you have completely lost me with all
the mathematical equations on eyebolts, etc, you got to
remember some of us are just plain old country bumpkins aka
rednecks, lol.....

No. The eye bolt must be positioned so the pull on the eye is along the centerline of the shank. Putting a rated bolt on hook through the holes would be mush less likely to raise issues, or fail.

Hey showcrop,how do you secure
your tractor on the trailer??

Hey guys I don't consider myself to be YTDOT. If you look at my past posts you can go back years and you will see clearly where I stand on this. I have continuously been one who comments against the need to secure 3,000 lb tractors as if they were 10,000, and I constantly refer questioners to the FMCSA website. That said I do see the problem with using a hardware store eyebolt as others brought up. To that end I googled it and posted a site that gives specs, not that I thought that they would really give the answer but just to show that there are specs for eyebolts that could be consulted. As for how I secure my tractors, and I do trailer a lot, most are NFE and I just use one adequate strap around the pedestal in front and 5/16 chain through a clevis in the bank. The larger tractors get the correct four way chaining down with 3/8 US Air Force grade chain. The chains on the front of the big tractor get attached to the weight bracket. A smaller wide front has a back hoe subframe and I pass a chain over that for the front, and in the back I use a clevis. Implements of course get a chain or strap over them.

Sometimes its tricky to figure out
where to strap em ! I have started
running a strap through the rear
wheels. Then attach it to tie down
points farther back on trailer. On
NF 960 there are several holes on
frame and I run a strap from there
on each side forward to a tie
down point. On WF 640 I have been
running a strap around each front
axle. Or sometimes I will run a strap over the transmission, instead of through wheels. Seems to be secure and I don't get any movement .

That is where the factory tow bar fastenes to on both Ford and Fergeson and MF. I have one of those made by MF and I also have a homemade one that Dad had made probably about 1945 and still have the tractor. And it pulled the tractor many a mile behind the car or even a light pickup truck.

For the back I run a strap over the lift arms and back to points on trailer. If I dont have an implement on the arms I put the trailer mover on.

I missed the part about using an eye bolt. I actually thought a clevis would have been used.

(quoted from post at 04:50:47 05/26/18) That is where the factory tow bar fastenes to on both Ford and Fergeson and MF. I have one of those made by MF and I also have a homemade one that Dad had made probably about 1945 and still have the tractor. And it pulled the tractor many a mile behind the car or even a light pickup truck.

Click to expand...

Leroy, where is that?

That is the bolt hole he was asking about putting a bolt in to use as a tie down point. If they are strong enough for the tow bar it is strong enough to use as a tie down place.