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How Do I Remove Valves from a Stuck Cub Flat Head Block

R

RTR

Well-known Member
I have a Farmall Cub engine fully disassembled except for the valves and the crank. The engine will not turn over and it has been sitting diaassembled to this point in an enclosed garage for 15 years. It has also been sitting outside my shop for the last 2 months in the weather until I could get to it.

How do I go about removing the valves from it? I've got them soaking since early this morning. I do have a small fork clamp style spring compressor. I've got to remove the valves to get it to a machine shop so the block and crank can be checked.
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A set of new valves cost like $65 a cut off wheel on angle grinder will free up lifters and cam.
You may have to cut heads off valve and press them out with the guides, and replace guides.
Or be patient and soak with lots of PB.
 
All kinds of ways
a torch in the port will heat the stem area
if you can pop the keepers fine
if not as said a cutoff wheel will get all that end dealt with
any hook loop or bolt welded to the head will allow an attached slide hammer to beckon it's release
torch welder cutoff wheels
FIRE SMOKE SPARKS

eeeeee haw
 
I like Kroil the best. Squirt some around the valves from both ends 2-3 times a day for a few days. Tap on the valves with a wood, lead, dead blow or brass hammer.
 
I would soak them for a longer time. If you screw the adjusting screw up a couple threads to get the valve moving, then back it back down. Then hammer the valve down, using a flat punch in the center of the valve head shouldn't hurt it. Do that until the valve is able to come out. Don't move the adjusting screw more than a couple threads up. Stan
 
Like said, soak them with rust penetrant.

Then go ahead and get the crank out.

You can look at the cam lobe position, and hammer any open valves down that are not held up by the cam. Then see if the cam will turn enough to get the rest of the valves closed.

Try to pry out as many valves that will come out. If they hammered down, they should pry out with some working back and forth. Remove the springs from the valves that came out. Leave the spring retainers on those that did not want to hammer down so the spring won't hold the lifter down. Then reach beside the cam with a brass or aluminum drift and hammer the lifters up so the cam will come out. Then pull the lifters (keep them in order if reusing). With the cam and lifters out of the way, the the remaining valves can be driven out with a long punch, cut off, whatever it takes.
 
I went ahead and got 4 valves, keepers and springs out. The middle 4 valves are still in the block. I got the keepers off The 2 middle exhaust valves, but the valves themselves are stuck solid. The 2 middle intake valves are stuck to the springs and Couldn't get them to separate to get the keepers out. Those valves should come out easily once the keepers are out. I left those remaining 4 valves in and went ahead and took it to an older guy down the road I just found out about that has a machine shop at his house. He machines racing motors and regular motors for Chevys and fords. He said he didn't have a puller to get the front crank pulley off but he knows someone that has something that will. He should call me once he gets them out and I'm gonna learn a little about measuring an engine and crank.
 

Never worked on a cub engine I have done a few 100/140 engine's.
If it has the same pulley don't hook a puller to the pulley you will break it. I cut a horse shoe U out of a piece of 3/8" steel plate that fit the back side of the pulley hook your puller to the plate not the pulley.
 
(quoted from post at 07:07:41 08/12/18)
Never worked on a cub engine I have done a few 100/140 engine's.
If it has the same pulley don't hook a puller to the pulley you will break it. I cut a horse shoe U out of a piece of 3/8" steel plate that fit the back side of the pulley hook your puller to the plate not the pulley.
Click to expand...

That is exactly what I explained to the machine shop guy.
 
If you are taking it to an engien machine shop, they could probably remove them in less time than it takes to read this thread. Let them do it before you make it harder for them.
 
No bigger than the whole block is, on one of those just set it in a barrel, and cover with diesel fuel or furnace oil. Let set a week or so. If it has set for 15 years then there must not be any hurry to it.
 
(quoted from post at 22:41:59 08/12/18) No bigger than the whole block is, on one of those just set it in a barrel, and cover with diesel fuel or furnace oil. Let set a week or so. If it has set for 15 years then there must not be any hurry to it.
Click to expand...

There is a hurry now. The owner is 94 years old and the grandson is wanting to get it going so he can see it run again.
 
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