Loose Bearing on Shaft Question

fpappal

Member
I bought a new tiller shaft and bearings for my Troy-bilt horse. I accidentally scored the shaft while replacing an oil seal. I bought an aftermarket shaft on ebay (made in USA) and it is the exact same size as my old shaft. I also bought new bearings from Autozone using the numbers stamped into the old bearings. The new bearings do not fit tight on the new shaft, there is just enough slop where the bearing spins. I was told to use Loctite bearing mount #8531. Looks like that product is discontinued. A quick google search leads me to Loctite bearing mount #680. I have never had a bearing that didn't fit tight on the shaft so this is all new to me. Does anyone know if this Loctite product is the answer to my loose bearing? I am only looking at a few thousandths at the most to make this bearing fit tight on the shaft. Any suggestions are appreciated.
 
get the seal on first then take a center punch and punch raised holes around the shaft ,then Loctite it, just my 2 cents
 
If the shaft is the size as the old one did you measure the new shaft ? If it is fact the same then you have the wrong bearings that Ia why I do not get bearings At auto parts stores the counter man will hand you anything whether it?s right or not . The bearings should be a tight fit with new bearings and shaft you should have to heat the bearing or freeze the shaft to get them on
 
You may need something like the Speedi Sleeve they use to fix shafts when the seal surface is scored or worn badly. It will tighten up the fit of the sleeve and the bearing
 
I don't know your particular application, but. On the machines I worked on most of my life there were lots of bearings that were not pressed fit on to the shaft, or even tight. The inner race was "trapped" by spacers or shoulders when you tightened up the nut or bolt. Is this possible in your case?
 
Replacing auto front wheel bearings. The bearings slide on the front axle shaft loose, and don't seam to be a problem. Like others have said dimple it some, or use Loctite. They make a few different retaining products. Loctite 609 bearing mount, or large gap Loctite 660. I am sure about any auto store has something. You need to remember The rototiller is not a precision made machine. I have one, they do the job. Stan
 
(quoted from post at 21:10:40 10/22/18) I agree with grizz02, gently center punch all around the shaft and then loctite, I believe the punching is called staking.

An old machinist friend of mine (God rest his soul) used to call that a "strawberry fit".
 

When you bought the new bearings at A.Z., did you match the number down to the last suffix letter, number, or symbol?

That bearing number suffix data can I.D special versions of the main bearing part number with slightly different dimensions.
 
We were told that locktite was good for up to .010. That did not fly with anyone at work though.
 
Any suggestions are appreciated.

I have had good luck with Loctite Stick 39150

mvphoto25684.jpg
 
I had a Buick sedan once that had a leaking rear seal that I had a problem getting to seal properly. In the process I learned that the bearing would slide on the axle over time and that is what caused my dilema.

Having had enough, one day I just pulled the sucker off and tack welded the bearing to the axle in one spot. Problem solved.
 
If you use 680, you will need heat to take it apart next time!

Rule of thumb is that the bearing is supposed to be tight on the moving part and a slip fit on stationary part.
 
Thank you for all the replies. The first set of bearing I purchased were from NAPA. They could not even find what I needed until they cross referenced to John Deere. When they arrived I noticed they were a little loose. When I got the old bearing off I then went back to NAPA with the number that was stamped on it and they told me that number did not come up in their system. I had my father try Autozone and the number came right up in their computer so I ordered a set. They fit exactly the same as the ones from NAPA, slightly loose. I was not there so not sure if matched every single number. I think I will try the Loctite first, seems like the easiest solution. Thanks.
 
Yes, it's a standard in machinery, the race that rotates has to be held, solid. On a typical wheel spindle the inner race does not rotate, that's why it's a slip fit.
 
Here in The Netherlands we say "cast and throw fit"; you can mount such component by throwing it towards the shaft or bore :-(. No skills or effort required.
 
We had brass sheets that were .001, .002, .005 etc and would cut a piece and stick it in the bearing before pressing. the excess would shear or squeeze out.
 
double check your bearing size? some bearing come in two different size ,some with a -1 at the end and the shaft size is a few thous. difference???
some times the -1 is not on bearing,but two different sizes.
 

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