Farmall H Axel Locking Up!

Hello folks! I have a H that just today, the right rear axel locked up. I was in first gear moving forward, and suddenly it locked, I put it in reverse it moved about 10 feet than locked up again. It will roll in neutral fine, but in gear it locks up in any forward gears after 10-12 ft, will go into reverse and engage and roll backwards just about the same distance until it locks up? I don't see the brake linkage moving or lurching when it does lock up, but you can almost put a tape measure to how far it will go (in gear) in forward or reverse. I had just pulled a small car out for the scrapper to come pick it up from behind the chicken coop (about 200 yards) and I didn't hear anything abnormal, unhooked from the car and this started to happen. Could this be a broken bull gear? (Again didn't hear any noise) or a bearing? Looking for all you folks experience and input. I need the 'ol girl every week on my acreage daily. I did pull the diff plug, no water (serviced it all last fall) and she runs like a dream. Again, right axel locks up either direction after 10-12 feet. Any input, and all your great experience would be appreciated.

Thank you!

Most likely a failing ball bearing on the inner end of the axle. The balls fall out of the races where they are cracked, and jam in the gear teeth. This allows it to move forward and back 80% if a tire circumference. Do not drive it or try to move it. Doing so will more than likely break the bottom out of the final drive housing. It is not uncommon. Draining the oil, then pulling the cover, then removing the gear retaining bolt, then sliding the axle outward, then getting the gear out, Then replacing the bearing, is about all there is to it. I hope you live where it is warm. A car moving dolly under the wheel would allow it to be relocated. Jim

Strange that it will roll in neutral.

That just about has to be something that makes one axle revolution when it locks.

That would limit the problem to the final drive, ring and pinion, carrier bearing, axle bearing...

Have you jacked the rear wheels off the ground and turned each, in gear trial?

Not yet Steve...I will plan on doing that tomorrow. Thanks for your response!

Thanks Jim, I did leave it where it was at, not to warm here (South Dakota) But I can get a dolly under it and get it in the shop. Never had to do any work on the rear-end of an H, but want to do it right...do you have any other tips? Pulling it apart, tricks, etc.? Can I do what you mention above by going in under the seat? Or how far will I need to break it down?

(quoted from post at 23:54:56 01/12/19) Thanks Jim, I did leave it where it was at, not to warm here (South Dakota) But I can get a dolly under it and get it in the shop. Never had to do any work on the rear-end of an H, but want to do it right...do you have any other tips? Pulling it apart, tricks, etc.? Can I do what you mention above by going in under the seat? Or how far will I need to break it down?

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get your self a break-down book DO NOT try to remove the bull pinion bearing cage with out removing the bull gears first! its gona be a pretty good job to tear it down that top plate is heavy

(quoted from post at 23:54:56 01/12/19) Thanks Jim, I did leave it where it was at, not to warm here (South Dakota) But I can get a dolly under it and get it in the shop. Never had to do any work on the rear-end of an H, but want to do it right...do you have any other tips? Pulling it apart, tricks, etc.? Can I do what you mention above by going in under the seat? Or how far will I need to break it down?

Click to expand...

get your self a break-down book DO NOT try to remove the bull pinion bearing cage with out removing the bull gears first! its gona be a pretty good job to tear it down that top plate is heavy

10-4 thank you Terry!

Yup need to pull the lid on top. Will be heavy like a couple hundred pounds also need to get it about 6 inches high to get the shif forks to clear the top of the case when you remove it.
A good loader would hold one side up to move it with a chain around the axle.

Nut shell list.
Support rear housing on wooden cribbing
Disconnect battery cable
Drain both sumps (trans and finals)
Clean all dirt from platform bolt holes
Disconnect/support steering column
remove seat
Remove bolts
Use balanced sling in seat and steering threaded holes
use a thin stiff putty knife to separate top
Lift straight up to clear shift forks
Look to see the real issue
Remove the axle nut (between gears down in there)
Slide axle outward to clear gear
Lift bull gear and clean up parts
Remove bearing
If the gears are chipped smaller than a lima bean I would probably use them after dressing to smooth with a dremel
Also check the pinion for nicks or burrs
Re assemble (I would use the black RTV sealer on clean metal for the top. Just a thin layer fingered on with a poly glove)
Jim

I use a hoist or loader to lift the top, just too heavy for me to do alone.

To add to Jims list, you will have to pull the fuel tank and belt pulley gearbox if it has one. I had to change the gasket between the differential and right axle housing on the 44 H I am working on. It may not be necessary, but I pulled the pto shaft out before removing the right side bull gear. Made getting the gear out and in easier. There is also a bolt at the top of each brake cover that screws into the trans top cover.

My SM did that when I was in high school. Rear end hadn't been opened in 25 years. Found a bull gear tooth stuck to one of the bull gear teeth. Somehow it had been in there since the rear end had been rebuilt and picked that moment to try causing havoc.

Maybe you'll be lucky, too.