How to remove corroded water temperature probe from engine?

bolt37 · Jan 20, 2019

Guys,

I am replacing all the gages on my 1965 Massey 165, gas burner. My temp probe will not even start to come out, and it is the brass type fitting with the probe capillary coming out the center. Can't get a wrench on it, and if I use a socket I will need to cut the capillary tube. I have had it soaking with Kroil for weeks and tapping it with a flat punch on one of the hex crowns to try to start it to rotate. Also tried an air powered chisel with a flat tip, not on full speed. But it is deforming, and I am afraid it will break off leaving the body in the cast iron part. Trying to do this without removing the cast iron coolant block from the engine. Figure that would be a disaster, too. How to remove corroded water temperature probe from engine? Any good tips?

Can it be drilled out without damaging anything?

Any ideas would be great!

Thanks!

Brent

Janicholson · Jan 20, 2019

If not the tool below, you could use a correct size regular deep well 6 point, and a die grinder, or cutoff wheel to
slice the side out of it to fit over the tube. then use a hose clamp on the top to keep it roundish and turn it out.
Jim
A split crows foot socket.

Andy Martin · Jan 20, 2019

If the gauge is working I'd leave well enough alone.

Drilling it out you may lose a fairly large piece into the cooling system.

Jim.ME · Jan 20, 2019

You said you are replacing [u:c70756e73c]all[/u:c70756e73c] the gauges. If that is correct a new mechanical gauge will have a new capillary tube made into the gauge. If you plan to install an electric gauge you will need a matching sender. So if you are really replacing the gauge, cut the existing capillary tube and use a six point socket.

bolt37 · Jan 20, 2019

Guys,

Thanks for quick replies! I didn't cut the capillary yet...just was trying not to until last resort. But I will have to if I need to get a socket on it. Just was holding off to see if you guys knew what lies ahead for me. If I get the nut out, there is good chance the probe will be stuck in there beyond this fitting which seats the probe against the temp housing. Then that may be a nightmare also, right?

I know I want a temp gage to be on the safe side. What about an in-line version where you install in the hose? Looks like less chance of screwing up...but not too original.

David G · Jan 20, 2019

what about heat?

bolt37 · Jan 20, 2019

That for sure, once I cut the capillary tube. If it is still charged, it will pop...

Plus I see a lot of forum issues where probes don't fit the old port, leaving you in a bind. Any thoughts?

37chief · Jan 20, 2019

All the ones I have ben around have an adapter in the engine, then the temp bulb fits into that. try loosening the adapter. As a last resort. If you do damage the tube, it is possible to solder a new bulb to the old gauge. I have never tried this. Find a new gauge that fits your engine. Freeze the bulb in ice with salt. This should keep the charge in the bulb, and tube. Cut the gauge bulb short at the gauge, solder a sleeve over the new bulb, and old bulb tube. being careful not to plug the tube at either end. I have a 52 Plymouth gauge want to try this. It's on the internet. Stan

Andy Martin · Jan 20, 2019

Should be a pipe tap in the cast iron with a brass reducer screwed into it. It's a special reducer with a flange to hold the capillary bulb flange. Then a nut to tighten the flange down. When the big nut comes off it's just a pipe thread and easy to clean out and match.

Can you post a picture?

If the existing gauge does not work you lose nothing by cutting the capillary.

gab · Jan 20, 2019

Cut the tube and use a socket.

VicS · Jan 20, 2019

I use a tubing wrench. 5/8 I think. Just
keep spraying it knocker loose. And trying.

oldseabee · Jan 20, 2019

I had one that the brass fitting was so bad that a wrench or socket
would not work so after I cut the tube I taped one of these Extractors on it, came right out.One way way or another I was going to get it out.

Steve@Advance · Jan 20, 2019

I'm thinking that doesn't have a pipe thread adapter, but the bulb is held directly in the thermostat housing with a special thread.

I would cut the tube, use a 6 point socket and some heat. Being brass it should come on out.

If not, remove the housing from the head so you can see what you are doing. It may have to be drilled, preferably on a mill, and the thread peeled out. There is a seat that the bulb seals against. Just be careful not to damage the threads or the seat.

caterpillar guy · Jan 20, 2019

A line wrench and some heat. No need to cut the tube this way. With water drained it will heat pretty easy. Heat let cool and should come out. If not heat the adapter fitting some.

JMS/.MN · Jan 20, 2019

You could try a butterfly socket...google it. Is the engine running? get it to op temp and apply candle wax...let it melt into the threads. Got a couple stubborn spark plugs out that way- had to do it a couple times but wax has never failed me.

showcrop · Jan 21, 2019

bolt, don't be over thinking this. First just cut the capillary, you WILL get the brass bushing out. Brass just is not capable of rusting to cast iron. At the very worst you will use an extractor like Oldseabee said. Those things work like magic. Next don't think twice about getting the bulb out. The thing with these bulbs is that there has to be clearance around them for the water to circulate, or the gauge would always read way low so once you have the bushing out if the bulb doesn't fall out just grab the nearest whatever and poke it into the end of the bulb and pull to one side it will literally fall out.

Frank 41 · Jan 21, 2019

I had a hassle trying to get the plug out of my Yanmar/Deere 3720 to put a block heater in. Tight and hidden, plus partial dismantling of hydraulic hoses. Even though the block was drained(?) when the plug decided to come out antifreeze got into the hydraulic hoses. I found out why they call them compact tractors.

bolt37 · Jan 29, 2019

Well I have some good news! I used "Kroil" penetrating oil over a period of about a week. Then I cut the capillary tube and put a socket on the fitting and it came right out!

I hated to cut it but had to. The gage was non-functional and since it comes as a system, you can't just fix the sensor, or just the gage, easily. I know some websites that give instructions on how to repair some aspects of these systems, but looks very time intensive to me.

Kroil is the BEST I have ever seen to get stuff loose. Just be patient, give it time to work.

I'll post later on getting the new sensor/gage installed.

showcrop · Jan 29, 2019

(quoted from post at 07:11:38 01/29/19) Well I have some good news! I used "Kroil" penetrating oil over a period of about a week. Then I cut the capillary tube and put a socket on the fitting and it came right out!

I hated to cut it but had to. The gage was non-functional and since it comes as a system, you can't just fix the sensor, or just the gage, easily. I know some websites that give instructions on how to repair some aspects of these systems, but looks very time intensive to me.

Kroil is the BEST I have ever seen to get stuff loose. Just be patient, give it time to work.

I'll post later on getting the new sensor/gage installed.

Bolt, as I stated in my second post I had no doubt that like everyone that I have done that int would come right out.

How to remove corroded water temperature probe from engine?

bolt37

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Andy Martin

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