Tire mounting tricks

grandpa Love

Well-known Member
Painted the rim from the 640 Ford and 1 rim off the baler. Plan to mount tires this afternoon and don't want to scuff the paint, any tips / tricks?
cvphoto37751.jpg
 
Get a small paint brush....by the time you put the tires on and bolt the wheel on, there will be some small scuffing.....at least there is when I do it!

Ben
 
Keep the opposite side of the bead being stretched over the flange centered in the drop to reduce stress on tools. Use real rubber lubricant. use EPDM roofing as a tool buffer where metal would touch paint. Touch up the paint. Jim
 

In my experience it is most important that both tire beads be well lubricated with a tire lubricate. I use REMA tire and tube mounting compound, there are many others I am sure would also work. It is to be mixed with water however, I typically rub it on the beads without diluting. The tire tools will tend to leave a mark on the rim/paint - not much you can do to prevent that.

I have used a piece of leather between the tire tool and the rim for mounting motorcycle tires with mixed results. Another option would be to take them to a tire store and have them machine mounted. The tire machine should be much easier on the rims.
 
If it is cold outside at your place, bring the tires inside and let them warm up real good first, makes them a lot easier to mount.

When it is freezing outside I will often prop a tire up on a chair in front of the wood stove for 20 minutes a side to soften it up first.

My Hofman tire machine can put them on without metal touching the lip of the rim.
 
Put garbage bags over the rim and little lube or liquid soap solution on the tire. Just did mine works well. Also when installing a tube sprinkle with baby powder or talc to make the alignment of the tube easier.
Chuck
 
That bakes on the paint so it will cure/harden up fast and then in turn be harder to scuff etc. Haven't you ever heard of the term baked on paint. Was common at one time and there where paint booths with heat lamps in them where something that was painted was then slowly run threw the booth to heat up and cure the paint
 
(quoted from post at 17:55:17 09/29/19) That bakes on the paint so it will cure/harden up fast and then in turn be harder to scuff etc. Haven't you ever heard of the term baked on paint. Was common at one time and there where paint booths with heat lamps in them where something that was painted was then slowly run threw the booth to heat up and cure the paint
Ok. Thank you. I was trying to figure out what that had to do with mounting tires. I'm aware that it's easier to get beads to seal when you warm up the rim, but couldn't see the advantage to letting it cool off again.
 
I always start opposite of the stem when putting on and finish at the stem. Less stress on the stem in a tube that way. I also start at the stem when taking off. I even do this on tubeless tires. If you use a hammer for the first bead you don't have to mark the rim putting it on . Then the second one will have minimal scuffing when done.
 
Mounting tires is easy; it's the dismounting that's hard. Get one of those tire hammers. You will never regret it. Put some oil on the bead of the tire, and the rim and the bead and jam the tire on the rim. Hit the bead a couple of times and you're done. I put a thin coat of vasoline on the rim, not the tire, and then silicon on the bead of the rim first. The vasoline will keep the silicon from sticking to the rim , so that the next time you change the tire, It will come off easily. It will even seal a badly damaged tire bead. It is also very slick, and makes it easier to seat the beads. Next time you demount your tire, you will see your nice clean rim without a spot of rust. If you get a little silicon on the tire, don't wipe it off. Wait till it dries and use a twisted wire wheel in a drill to take it off. It comes off very easily that way. Before I air up the tire to seat the beads, I spray wd40 all the way around the bead area. A clip on air chuck comes in handy too. Take out the valve core, so that the air flows faster. You will have to take out the valve core depressor out of the air chuck.I also have a regular clip on air chuck. Sometimes it helps to hit the tire with that big hammer on the tread while you seat the bead with the air flowing in the tire at the same time. If all else fails, I use carb cleaner, haha. That never fails!
cvphoto37800.jpg
 
Paint inside of rim, let cure for a couple of weeks so tube will not stick to new paint, install tire, paint outside of rim and scuffed up paint on edge of rim at tire.
 
Been using oil and grease for 60 years. No problems yet! Sure have seen many, many, rusted rims from water and soap. Take your choice.
 
Oil and grease soften the rubber and can in fact cause a tube to pop. I've worked in more then one tire shop and ALL have always said keep oil away form tires and tubes. That is why there is a stuff call Murphy's soap which is a sort of grease like stuff but not grease
 
If it has water in it, it will rust the rim, but if it's called soap, it probably has water in it. Apparently it only takes a tiny bit of water to rust out a rim that's been on a long time. Do you have tires that have been on for10 20 or 30 years that have no rust? I do. None have problems with deteriorating rubber either. Keep doing what you are doing if it works for you, and I'll keep on doing what I do because it works.
 

All garages use tire lube. One popular one is Bead-Eze. I looked up the SDS it is 85% water the rest is surfactant which is often called soap. There is virtually no such thing as soap anymore unless you make it yourself from lye and animal fat.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top