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SVcummins

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Has anybody used this method to repair a crack in cast iron before ? Looks like a good idea to me
cvphoto8280.png

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reminds me of block stitching used on the cummins. I think the copper method would work very well. Here is a video of the block stitching method
Stichting
 
(quoted from post at 04:40:54 03/14/20) Has anybody used this method to repair a crack in cast iron before ? Looks like a good idea to me
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Friend of mine showed me a book with that method documented. The book was over 100 years old.
 
I've done it but with brass instead of copper. Worked for the most part, still get a bit of seepage. Depending on the application it may not be a very strong repair.
 
How was it to drill through half the rod diameter and the block ? I?m thinking of threading the rods and then use Jb weld as kind of a thread sealant then peen the ends and probably a layer of jb weld over the top of it all
 
I just found this while searching online somebody
told me once about using pipe plugs but I?m not
sure how they would drill? Might still be a good idea
because the tapered thread of the pipe would
probably help pull the crack together
 
Drilling to overlap the previous plug could cause it to turn slightly which would break the drill unless there was very little overlap. Which would defeat the purpose. Pipe plugs could force the crack to open.
 
4 cyl Ford OHV heads in the 100 and early 1000 series tractors had a problem with heads cracking. Alexander's Tractor Parts in Winnsboro, Tx. used to do just that only used lead plugs....no reason copper wouldn't work too but lead would work easier. I bought one giving them my core to repair and resell and never had a problem with it.

I had a 4 cyl Mercruiser ( modified Chevy II engine for marine service) With a horizontal crack around the mid section of the block, about 2-3 inches long....about at the bottom of the water jacket best I could tell, due to PO letting the block freeze with no AF. I cut a shallow V down the crack with a grinder and scratched the surface up good around the crack, thoroughly cleaned it, then applied a goodly amount of JB weld. Had the boat for about 10 years after restoration and never had a problem with the block leaking.
 
I figure not a lot to loose at this point so without spending to much money I might see how pipe plugs drill and then maybe try copper and see how it is to work with ? It doesn?t need to be super strong I don?t think I?ve been running with the cap pressure released and the leak has stopped almost completely
 
I have used Belzona for many years with great success including building up the block and reforming the o ring groove on a Fordson Diesel Major. MJ
 
I would like to think the jb weld would get in the way of the penning process of expanding it tight to the block.
 
Using copper or brass would make drilling easier than using steel.

I think it would have to be pipe thread otherwise you would not have anything tight.

I would be very cautious peening over the ends, a crack in a cast water jacket is weak spot at best, no need to make it bigger.

Using copper you could easily flow a layer of solder over it when done for extra piece of mind.

Every crack is different, I have seen many that held up good with brazing or JB weld.
 
I?m looking at brass and maybe even the aluminum
pipe plugs . I agree on the pipe because that way
it?ll tighten
 
Mj it looks like some pretty amazing stuff . I?ve looked on their website and they show pretty impressive repairs with it
 
I peened the rods as I installed them. Then ground the surface smooth with a flap disk. Then did the next hole. Worked out fine.
 
I would be wary of using aluminum in an iron block. Over time you could get corrosion between the two different metals. I think that would make a mess.
 
HadNt thought of that one . I think brass will be easy enough to work with going to put epoxy on the plugs as well so it won?t be metal to metal contact and help seal as well
 
By design, any type of pipe plug is going to push the crack apart.
And any row of threaded rod into the block will do nothing to strengthen the block.
The threaded in parts are only going to help mechanically seal the crack.

I would use brass set screws, fine thread socket type if possible.
You can then keep previous set screw from turning via wrench.
Use core plug sealant on the threads.
 
I have used Marine Tex to bond and seal many things, including a Honda 90 engine case that got the bottom torn out. It's an old product - I first used it almost 50 years ago.
http://marinetex.com/
 
I?ve been researching ways to do a repair on this for quite some time . It?s been cracked for 2 years and 30,000 miles truck still works hard everyday no more cracks have appeared so I?m going to try and make a patch and seal it . I have another block but I anybody can swap a block I want to fix the leak
 
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