Carburetor rebuild

J Hamilton

Well-known Member
Looking for a good place to send a
carburetor for rebuild. Anyone reccomend a
good place? I've read a lot of people have
had a bad experience with Denny's. My carb
is a Zenith 8964B
 
whats worn out on it? not much to go wrong other than bushing wear. I have my zenith 8964 of the case dc4 soaking right now. making my own gaskets and bought a new float yesterday. not much to them.
 
It came off a tractor that has been in a barn for 30+ years. The throttle butterfly is stuck and I don't want to break anything taking it apart. I'm going by my rule of don't mess with something you don't know anything about because you'll make it more difficult for someone who does.
 
I just saw that old C . I had one years ago. I think if you soaked it in gunk for a day or two it might loosen up with some help. I had a set of needle nose pliers seized up and stuck then in with the carb gunk and they come loose.
 
I work on a lot of carb's in my area but i have not gone into taking in ones outside of my area. the mqain reason is that yep i do a darn good job on them i want to be the one to put it back on and get it set and if by chance i missed something then i can fix the problem then and now .. Been working on carb's for close to 60 years and yep everyonce in awhile i will miss something maybe a tiny spec of dirt that did not come out while i was working on it . The carb that gave me the most problems was on my own S/MTA Five times i had it off before i found the passage that had a tiny spec of metal wedged down it . si times i hand cleaned that passage with the number drills in total it was the last time when i used the drill to DRILL the passage that dug it out . So if you are in the N/E Ohio area i would be happy to do it for ya , BUT not till this BUG is GONE.
 
The old carbs are really simple.

If you have any mechanical ability at all, you will find it's nothing to be afraid of.

Most people mess them up trying to take apart unnecessary items, like removing the plates and shafts. As long as the shaft is not excessively worn, and it can be freed up to operate, it will be fine.

Be sure to work over a clean surface so nothing gets lost. Use good tools, the right size screw driver so not to round out brass jets and screws. If a jet refuses to come out, stop before rounding out the screw slot. Either leave it, or put some heat on it to get it moving.

As for repair kits, I would take it apart first, see what it needs. There are minor repair kits, and "comprehensive" kits that are expensive but have all the parts needed for a complete rebuild (not usually needed, see the caution above). Sometimes you don't need anything, just ease it apart, clean it up, go back together.

Don't depend on air and chemicals to clean jets. They need to be scraped out with a wire or torch tip cleaner. Especially so if it's had dried ethanol gas left in it.

You can do this, plenty of how to videos on YouTube, part break down diagrams, and spec sheets online. You will find that most specialty carb shops grossly overcharge (my opinion only), preying on fear and knowing they will probably get it back when it doesn't work.

Speaking of not working...

A carburetor can only work as well as the rest or the engine is tuned and is capable of running. Poor ignition, low compression, dirty fuel will not let the most prefect carb work properly!

Be sure to clean out the gas tank, and the sediment bowl, be sure the screens are in place and flush the line before connecting to the carb. The tiniest speck of trash in the needle valve will make it flood.
 

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