1961 MF65 Diesel Tachometer Work Light Conduit or cable

[b:fba67a46dc][u:fba67a46dc]Tach[/u:fba67a46dc][/b:fba67a46dc]
The tachometer isn't working. Removing the cable at the tach and starting the engine, the cable wasn't turning and I couldn't get any sense of mechanical engagement by pushing and jiggling the exposed cable end either. I pulled the cable out and it has a normal square end with a finished tip.

I think it's driving off the camshaft. It looks like it wouldn't be a big deal to pull it apart. Before I do, though, I'm wondering if there's anything else I should check or likely causes. I'm considering damaged drive connector or previous cable remnant. Is a damaged drive difficult or expensive to fix?
Before putting the control console back together. I think I should lubricate and test the tach, but haven't found a procedure or know which lubricant to use.
[u:fba67a46dc]
[b:fba67a46dc]Work Light Cable[/b:fba67a46dc][/u:fba67a46dc]
This wire is exposed and vulnerable looking. I found a tractor restoration article where it was covered with a tough look dark sheathing. Does anyone know where I can find this material?

I untaped and cleaned the engine harness. I intend to use regular split plastic wire loom there.
Thanks.
Dale

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If the cable is intact, something else has failed.

Take the drive apart, see what drives the cable. If it's a 90* adapter there is a set of bevel gears
inside. If it's direct drive something inside is stripped or sheared. It will be obvious once you get into
it.

As for the drive on the back of the tach, it's a brass barrel that extends out the back where the cable
goes in. It should be smooth and effortless to turn. It can be oiled, something like 3-In-One electric
motor oil will work. If you can get the tach out so you can turn it face down, the oil will get in better,
just don't over do it.

Also clean the cable and oil the housing with the same oil. The cable needs to move freely inside the
housing. If it drags, or the housing has been kinked, or is rusty, the tach will not operate smoothly and
will put extra stress on the drive.

As for the wire harness, the split loom works well. It can be bought at about any auto supply in various
sizes. Protects the wire and looks professional.

Put the engine end of the tach cable in an electric or cordless drill and give a spin to see if the tach is working. Variable speed would be best. I'm not sure which way it turns.