So, my old 150 with 270K on it wouldn't turn off this morning. Key switch is really sloppy, no resistance at all when trying to turn it back to shut off vehicle. I thought it was the switch, so went and got one. New switch makes no difference. Only way to turn it off is by stalling it in gear and then removing battery cable as everything stays powered up. Looking online, it appears there is a possibility of the actuator rod being bad? Anyone ever dealt with that? Looks miserable to replace. (Would have to rent steering wheel puller, deal with air bag, etc.) Other possibility is a friend has an identical truck that I could get parts off of, including just swapping out the steering column? Would that be any easier? I am not positive it is the rod, but it appears online that they are plastic and do fail. Anything else that could cause the issue of no resistance on the key switch itself? It turns super easy when starting it and no resistance at all when trying to shut truck off. Thanks in advance!
- Thread starter psimmer
- Start date
It feels like there are detents with the switch as I rotate it, but it us really no tension as I rotate it to any of the positions, and when try to turn truck off nothing happens. I still wonder where the tension should be? If I remove the ignition switch, and manually move it to the various positions, (off, accessories, start, run, etc.) will I feel tension in the switch itself? If I do that, would I then either be able to see the actuator rod move as I turn the key? I am still in the diagnose it stage, trying to determine if it might be the switch or the rod.
So I just removed the switch at the bottom of the column so I would watch the plastic rod. When turning the key to start it does push down toward the floor board which would activate the start position, but stays there. When I turn the key back towards run, accessories or stop the rod doesn't move. Sooo, that means that rod isn't functioning, correct? Now the question is, after watching youtube videos of dismantling the steering column to replace it, with the air bag, needing a wheel puller etc., would it be easier to switch the entire column from a parts truck? PS-I have never done either of those jobs!
used red MN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coon Rapids, MN
I agree with ..wore out.. when you hold the rod still if the key cylinder turns more than 10 or 15 degrees the tooth rack that actuates the movement of the rod to the switch is stripped. If you have an Oreilley or Auto Zone near you they loan out tools like that puller. You basically pay the price of the tool when you get it and then they refund your money when you return it. Don’t know if a whole column swap would be easier, sometimes the shaft connections in front of the firewall are a bear to get off.
Ok. So, by leaving the ignition switch hanging under the steering column with the bottom of the dash removed, I can manually use the ignition switch to start and stop the truck. That will allow me to use it until I figure out Plan B, either taking it to let somebody else try and replace that actuator rod, or switch columns, or attempt it myself. Thanks for the suggestions and information.
jimg.allentown
Well-known Member
I think that your problem is the "rack" that the rod is connected to. When you turn the key, it should push the rod down to move the switch to the start position. The lock cylinder should pull the rod back to the off position when you turn the lock cylinder back to the off position. If it does not, the rack is broken.
The fact that the lock cylinder pushes down proves that the rod is OK.
As to whether you should attempt the job yourself, you don't need to let a steering wheel puller be an issue. You can get one that will do the job at Harbor Freight for not much money.
A determining factor would be if you have a tilt column or a fixed column. The tilt columns are a bit more complicated than a fixed column.
If the other truck is identical, it may be a bit easier to switch the column, but there are other issues with that operation.
Given the high labor rates in shops today, the more you can do yourself, the better off you will be.
The fact that the lock cylinder pushes down proves that the rod is OK.
As to whether you should attempt the job yourself, you don't need to let a steering wheel puller be an issue. You can get one that will do the job at Harbor Freight for not much money.
A determining factor would be if you have a tilt column or a fixed column. The tilt columns are a bit more complicated than a fixed column.
If the other truck is identical, it may be a bit easier to switch the column, but there are other issues with that operation.
Given the high labor rates in shops today, the more you can do yourself, the better off you will be.
Paul from MI
Well-known Member
I had one3 fail on my 2001 F150. $5 plastic part and $300 labor. One of Fords better ideas.
Hobo,NC
Well-known Member
- Location
- Sanford, NC
I have never done a fixed I would think a fixed would be a piece of cake... Tilts are a booger : ( from start to finish...
jimg.allentown
Well-known Member
Each has its own issues. Changing a steering column is awkward and clumsy. You have to support it while you line up the shafts.
If you do attempt to change the column, make absolutely sure that you lock the steering wheel in place in relation to the housing. If it turns too far in either direction, it will damage the clock spring. Those are expensive. Make sure that when you remove it from the donor vehicle the front wheels are straight ahead. Then lock the steering so that it cannot turn. Install it in your vehicle with the wheels straight ahead. That way everything will be in proper alignment.
If the wheel is a turn off to either side, it will break the clock spring when you make your first turn. Then the air bags, horn, and cruise control will no longer work. Might light up a few lights on the dash as well.
If you do attempt to change the column, make absolutely sure that you lock the steering wheel in place in relation to the housing. If it turns too far in either direction, it will damage the clock spring. Those are expensive. Make sure that when you remove it from the donor vehicle the front wheels are straight ahead. Then lock the steering so that it cannot turn. Install it in your vehicle with the wheels straight ahead. That way everything will be in proper alignment.
If the wheel is a turn off to either side, it will break the clock spring when you make your first turn. Then the air bags, horn, and cruise control will no longer work. Might light up a few lights on the dash as well.
I've replaced a bunch of those actuator pieces, there are two main pieces but mainly just one of them breaks, where they link together by a with a metal pin. Anyway it's not a difficult job for me but I would say it's going to be difficult for anyone that is not familiar with dismantling steering columns. To replace the actuator is basically a complete disassembly of the column. If would be a good time to replace the column bearings since the housing will be off anyway, especially if the steering wheel is loose.
It might be best for you to swap the column out, if you have a good spare. The actuator pieces will be easier to replace on a bench with a vice. The steering columns come out of those trucks pretty quick and easy. If it's an auto, make sure you disconnect the shift indicator line before getting too far.
It might be best for you to swap the column out, if you have a good spare. The actuator pieces will be easier to replace on a bench with a vice. The steering columns come out of those trucks pretty quick and easy. If it's an auto, make sure you disconnect the shift indicator line before getting too far.
At this point it is drivable fairly easily. Starter switch is hanging just under steering column, and it is not a problem to start it and shut it off using that. Thinking seriously about farming the job out
given the degree of difficulty, the fact I would be working outside, and our northern MI weather is about to change. In all honesty, it would not be a problem to drive the truck the rest of its life in this
manner, although I do plan on getting it fixed properly. I do appreciate all of the comments, suggestions, advice, etc. As many many others have stated here before, the amount of knowledge on this site about
such a wide variety of topics is amazing and appreciated.
given the degree of difficulty, the fact I would be working outside, and our northern MI weather is about to change. In all honesty, it would not be a problem to drive the truck the rest of its life in this
manner, although I do plan on getting it fixed properly. I do appreciate all of the comments, suggestions, advice, etc. As many many others have stated here before, the amount of knowledge on this site about
such a wide variety of topics is amazing and appreciated.
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