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I can’t win cummins 53 block

S

SVcummins

Well-known Member
I thought I had a block found but it turns out it’s another 53 block cracker . Finally got the block stripped and I took it to town to pressure wash and hiding underneath 22 years of grease was a big number 53
cvphoto66726.jpg


cvphoto66727.jpg
 
Cummins had the blocks cast in Brazil and They cast the water jacket to thin a long the right side just below the casting plugs and they crack when used hard . I’m going to measure and see how thick it is some are supposed to be thicker and won’t crack
 
Sorry to hear the bad news. You are just like me. If it wasn't for bad luck, I would have no luck. Stan
 
Does it make any difference that it is a "seasoned" block that has probably already seen many hours of service?
 
I think we had a 53 block discussion not too long ago. Anyway, I have a 53 block in a 98 12V. I don't know the difference but heard the 12V blocks were not known for cracking like the 24V blocks, I hope it's true. Not all 53 blocks are going to crack, but who wants to find out which ones do.
 
Well it is way over the miles that they usually crack around
200 to 250,000 or before on most of em i can’t figure out a
good way to measure it with what I’ve got for tools
 
What are the differences between a 12V block and a 24V block? I have several 12Vs around here. Only one 98.5 24V. I have a bare block I bought to put in a 91 truck. A complete 93 in a Carpenter School Bus (w/p=pump), A ex AirForce 97 shortened wheelbase pickup.
The 91 truck has a crack and external leak.
 
(quoted from post at 22:05:22 12/11/20) Some are thicker some are thinner I d say don t worry until it
cracks
Click to expand...


Do you really have range of thickness specs? That block is proven! Go ahead and use it!
 
Brazil? And you rag on Fiat tractors built in Italy where some of the best motors in the world are built?(LOL)Never have seen a Fiat block that was cracked unless pure water was left in it in the Winter.
 
Possibly could have it sonic checked to test thickness. Commonly done on the bores of race engines to know exactly how far to bore. Should work the same for casting thickness. I sure wouldn't go to all the trouble to build a 53 block on a hope and a prayer it doesn't crack. The problem with those blocks is they are fine, right up till they aren't. I've seen low mile crack, I've seen high miles crack. one thing I can say, never seen a Duramax crack😀.
 
I am sure you have heard of zipper welding them. My brother pulled my dads out of his truck. Welded it with a mig welder. Was still pulling stock trailers 5 years later with 450000 km.
 
This is a problem with all 99 (98.5) to 02 motors with 24 valves.
The longer or harder you use the truck including heavy towing and improper warm up of a cold motor; the more likely you are to see the crack.
Welding and stitching just kicks the can down the road as a new crack will form.
The thicker blocks built in Mexico do not have the 53 code on the block.

The 12 valve block also had its problems in 88 to 98 motors.
This flaw was the dowel pin coming out the timing gear and being thrown threw the timing cover creating a Valdez type oil spill in your driveway.
 
Cummins is the only decent choice out of the 3 but the 53 block is complete junk you can still replace the cracked block and rebuild the engine cheaper than a set of injectors on a v8 diesel
 
was just wondering whats with the block you were tearing apart ?it appears your talking about this one being a replacement to the other one?
 
It was going to be a replacement but I found one that is not a 53 block I am going to pick up Tuesday
 
I have only had one 53 out of 5 trucks I have never had an engine problem in any of them until this one which still doesn’t make me happy I knew of the issue when I bought the truck but like a dumb a$$ I believed the seller when he said it was not a 53 block that was my own fault .
 
I found another block that is not a 53 . They made 100,000 of these pos and I get two in 6 what’s the odds that’ll ever happen , could’ve shoulda one the frickin power ball but no
 
But the 88-98 12v problem is so minor. If you can use your hands you can make the killer dowel pin fix to hold it in there. Plus the cost of the front cover seals. I have to of them trucks and love them. One is 600hp and the other I daily drive. Neither have been over hauled. Daily is at 293,000 and the one with 600hp is at 188,000 I believe.
 

Well if things get any worse, then maybe you should consider changing your name to svcaterpiller. lol
 
I’d go for it . Gm was going to offer a cat was the rumor but
they were to heavy . I am not a fan of conversions or I’d throw
a 404 John Deere in it
 
I have never ever heard of the killer dowel pin ever failing ever
I even went so far to take one apart to fix it it wasn’t worth my
time and I put it back together
 
Your fine I give you heck about fiat so you can give me heck about Deere and Cummins I can take it and dish it 😂. Honestly I don’t have a problem with fiat so much as they way the run the farm equipment end of it they were trying to sell the case ih part of it but nobody wanted it
 
I plugged one by overlapping brass plugs and the repair worked great but if I’m going to rebuild one I don’t want to rebuild another 53
 

I agree that I'd look for another block before rebuilding a 53 block.
Difference between a 12v block and 24v is 12v as pipe threads for the oil sending unit were 24v has ORB threads, also 24v blocks have 6 bolt holes for the engine mounts and 12v only has 4, pretty sure 24v uses the back 4 holes on the left side and 12v block doesn't have the back holes.
12v blocks didn't really have a dowel pin issue as 24v blocks have the same dowel pins, the issue was the block plate was straight bored for the pin to fit in which also allowed the pin the work it's way back out, Cummins later revised the block plate with a tapered hole to prevent the dowel from coming out, all 24v block plates had the tapered hole.
As for the Dmax and later Ford remarks all I can say is at least you don't have to lift the cab off to work on a 12v or 24v Cummins.
I've seen one Ford with a JD conversion and one with a Perkins but choose the 12v Cummins route myself.

These are photo's of my F-450 with the 12v Cummins I swapped in


mvphoto66588.jpg

mvphoto66589.jpg

mvphoto66590.jpg


This conversion is how I got my user name Destroked 450

John
 
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