How to solve Diesel Spring Startup Problems?

I have a Ford 3000 diesel and it seems every spring I need to pull the IP and clean the gunk out of it to get it to run. I do add winterizer but it does not seem to help at all. I am starting to think the diesel fuel I buy may be part of the culprit but I know a bunch of others that are using it. A big part of the problem I think it that the tractor only gets used for about 5 hours in spring then sits in shed over winter ... it is not near my house so starting it up every couple of weeks is not an option.
Just looking for what others here have found that worked in a similar situation.
Thanks

Hardwood62,

It sounds more like a fuel issue then a lack of use. I would also look at the fuel tank and make sure that
is clean. Algae will grow in the tank and contaminate an otherwise good fuel,

Guido.

All i ever put in Diesel fuel is Howe's or a eqivalant to absorb some water! Water is No 1 problems in a diesel, are you putting Marvel Mystrey Oil ???

do you run the tractor after adding treatment to get it in to the whole system?

Sounds like you are using Bio-Diesel.. You need to be using regular No-1 or No-2 diesel fuel.. Using
bio-diesel you need to use it up, add treatment, not let it set in your tractors fuel tank.. Setting in
the fuel tank will grow algae as Guido stated.. It will plug-up your injector pump-lines-nozzles-tank. If
tractor sits more than used, use regular diesel fuel..

You need to be SURE there's no water settled to the bottom of the fuel tank or in any fuel cans or any fuel storage tank(s) you may have.

The organisms that make the gunk thrive on water.

Treat fuel with biocide according to the label on the product and expect to have to change fuel filters a time or two as the killed gunk plugs them

That stuff isn't cheap, but it does the job that the common stuff the other guys suggested doesn't do.
ONE source of fuel biocide

I would email Deiseltech at [email protected] and
ask him for a recommendation. I know he is busy with
tractor drives so I dont know how much he is on this site
when he is out on those. In a recent post he said he would
be on them this weekend and next. If you dont know he is
a poster on here that rebuilds injection pumps. Surely there
is some fuel that would keep your pump from giving
problems like jet 8 or kerosene. Do you live in a state like
MN that mandates all diesel sold has a percent blend of
biodiesel? Not ideal fuel to have setting in your pump.

I use a little of the biocide that wore out recommended. There isn't anyplace to buy fuel near where we use our tractor so I keep an extra 5-10 gallons, and sometimes it sits over winter.

Thanks for all the input -
Yes I live in MN the land of crappy fuels, gas or diesel. I buy at FF, not sure what their diesel fuel consists of but probably bio. I will see if I can find #1 or 2 any place. I will also add the Bio Kleen, even though a 16oz bottle will last me way beyond the shelf llfe of 12 mo. I do use their Diesel Fuel Supplement and will try both. Might start keeping my eye out for a gas tractor - love my tractor but probably not worth hassle for the limited use it gets.
Thanks Again.

Which pump do you have?
CAV rotary or Simms inline?
They used both types on those 3000s.
If you have Simms I do not know those at
all.
What kind of gunk are you finding in it?
I have three 3 cylinder Ford diesels. All
have CAV pumps. I buy my fuel any old
place. Never had any fuel or starting
issues. Never have used an additive.
Except, I have had the metering valve stick
closed a few times before. PIA but easy
fix.
When I shut off my tractors - even for a
minute - I ALWAYS push the kill cable back
in as soon as it quits. That opens the
metering valve so it won't stick closed.
Make it a force of habit.
I parked my 3000 last September. Went up to
my property 2 weeks ago to put in deer
plots, put a battery in it and it fired up
instantly.
Same thing every year.
Friend has a 4600 stored up there and I
have a 4000 up there that never gets used.
They Always start if I need to move them -
even after a couple of years.
I live in the Cities. Property is in
Aitkin.
Whereabouts are you?

Just a thought: When you park the tractor for a number of months do you FILL the tank completely, or
leave it with whatever is left? A full tank will not have condensation taking place while sitting.
No water/fuel interface means the bugs have no place to grow, if that is what your having happen.
hope it helps

Hardwood, there are hundreds of thousands of people in MN using diesel with no problem. You need to get off the idea of bad fuel at the pump. You are turning the fuel bad by letting it sit for a year in a vented container. You need to take evasive action if you want it to start. First is to keep the tank FULL so that less air can go in and out with temp. changes. Second is before trying to start it drain fuel into a container until you have eliminated anything bad sitting on the bottom of the tank. Third is to find some work for it in the fall before winter storage. Get it hot enough to drive all the moisture out. Have you been checking your trans and hydraulic housings? chances are you have water on the bottom of them or if you are using hytran the moisure will be all mixed in so that it is like a coffee milkshake.

Now when you clean up the gunk to get it going I think it would be safe to assume you go through the procedure to bleed the fuel system before it will start.

Have you considered the possibility that what is getting your tractor up and running is the bleeding of the system?

It only takes a minor leak for air to enter the system this can and will happen with absolutely zero signs of any fuel leaking out.

Loose fuel filter, loose hose clamp or fitting, pinhole in a fuel line etc.

All of these can go unnoticed on an engine that is run on a regular basis as there is not enough time for enough air to enter the system to cause a noticeable difference.

I have many diesels that will sit for the better part of a year that will fire up in seconds without doing anything unusual.

On my payloader for example it will start and run fine all summer long but just like clock work every year as soon as the temperature drops a gremlin that I have not yet located forces me to bleed the air out of the pump before it will start.

Ultradog -
It is a CAV pump, when I disassembled it it was pretty much covered with a gooey dark brown film - acetone was about the only thing that would get it off. The advance mechanism was virtually glued tight and the pump pins and rollers were also sticking, the metering valve was actually not bad . I love this tractor except for this so if I can get mine working like yours I would be very happy ... I use mine also strictly for food plots by Eveleth. I will try opening up the fuel valve when I shut it down going forward.

I do make sure the tank is full or nearly full when I shut the tractor down before storage.

I purchased some Howes additive and will start adding it along with the Bio Kleen and Diesel Fuel Supplement +Cetane Boost from Power Service. Maybe it is the fungus and other crud that is causing my biggest problem. Will also replace all filters even though flow seems good but need to get the crud out.

I did put a new pump on last summer and this spring it too would not pump just like the original pump - I am returning it for a replacement and did not want to break it down to see what it's problem was before I returned it since it is under warranty. Both the original and the new pump would squirt through bleed port but not through the injector ports ... so kind of assuming they both have the same problem. For some reason I cannot get the original pump (approx 3500 hrs) working again even after cleaning it - will squirt some fuel but not much??

Added 6/11
OK so I tore the original pump down again since it was not pumping after I cleaned it ... I could not believe the amount of brown sticky gunk that had accumulated without it ever being put on the tractor?? Can the fuel be that bad that turns to gunk in a matter of a few days? I put some Bio Kleen in a container of fuel and cleaned and rinsed it again - will leave parts soaking for a few days to see what happens.

This post was edited by Hardwood62 on 06/11/2021 at 09:29 am.