Cylinder Cap STUCK

Hi there, I just got my hands on an International 3600A. Got it running, good stuff. One of the swing arm cylinders is leaking really badly so I endeavored to rebuild it.

I am currently stuck on step 1: Removing the Cylinder cap.
This cylinder is built a little differently than most of the ones you see around. The grooves are on the outside of the cylinder itself and the cap screws onto it.

I purchased the correct tool, a pin spanner wrench...But NO GOOD. even with a 5 foot bar attached to the end of it and my friend beating on it with a hammer. No movement whatsoever.

In the course of our efforts, the spanner wrench was tweaked a little bit so I really think a new one is in order but I cannot find anything heavy duty enough (or that fits on a 6 cap).

I'm looking for any advice on getting this type of cap off. Tips, tricks, tools - Anything. I think hercules and superman teamed up to tighten this thing. Also it likely hasn't been changed since the 70s.

Thanks in advance!
cvphoto91181.jpg
 
Saintbacon: I can't tell for sure from your picture exactly how your cap's removal holes are set up, but one way of dealing with these caps is shown in the video below--not mine, but he shows the tool at about 8:45. Later in the video they use a large purpose-built machine to disassemble and reassemble the cylinder but it's not necessary to remove the cap as long as you have some way of holding it steady. Even if it's not exactly the same style as yours it may give you some ideas.
hydraulic cylinder cap removal
 
Here's what I do - get cylinder out and secure it, I typically find a way to chain it down to my 14K trailer using stake pockets, chains and binders but depends on what you have at your disposal, use your imagination . Then I take my big heavy-duty pipe wrench and adjust it to fit tightly on endcap then put an extension pipe onto the wrench and stand on the pipe and bounce up and down. Also you may want to heat the endcap with oxy-acetylene if it still won't come loose, you are going to replace the seals anyway in case they melt. Also some have a set screw, make sure you loosen that first

<IMG SRC =https://i.postimg.cc/RFXPKFRj/Big-Pipe-Wrench.jpg>
 
My go to tool for that would be the 3 ft(or larger)chain wrench.

A chain wrench will put more squeeze around the nut than a big pipe wrench, less chance of crushing and egging it.

Heat and beat! Hitting around the outside will help break loose any rust that may be holding it.
 
Unhappily I had the same problem on a dump truck piston. I assumed a hydraulic shop would have the necessary tools. I had it picked up for repair. They cut the nut off, made or had a new one made and charged accordingly. I could have done that myself had I known.
If I had known I probably would have split the nut on one side expanded it to remove and while the piston was apart veed the nut out, put it on and tack welded it, then removed and finished welding it. Don't try this at home.
 
In my experience rebuilding cylinders like that you will need a 5 foot pipe or chain wrench plus up to 8 additional feet of cheater pipe, full torch tanks, and possibly a buddy to heat cylinder while you hang off the wrench or vise-versa. If never rebuilt before it very well could have loctite on the threads.
 
Thanks for the suggestions folks! I'm going to grab a 3' chain wrench and see what I can do with it.

I may also grab my smaller tractor and try to use that to push the chain wrench.

If all that fails, I'm going to heat it and beat it.

I'll get back with results after my new wrench comes in.
 


Thanks for all the suggestions. I was able to get a 3' Chain wrench and a 5' "helper" bar. Popped off with some effort. I was afraid I'd have to use a bottle jack or a jack-all, but SUCCESS!! on to the next challenge.


mvphoto77702.jpg


mvphoto77703.jpg
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top