Cub mini alternator

grandpa Love

Well-known Member
Got it on and wired up. Not charging. Would a bad amp gauge cause an issue? I used this gauge thingy on the stud on alternator and only bottom 2 lights on battery part are lit..... Checked gauge on a Ford tractor, every light lit up. Help!?! My dad wants his cub back... I ran one wire from alternator to amp gauge and then to starter,that's the end of hot wire from battery......
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(quoted from post at 17:51:02 07/11/21) Got it on and wired up. Not charging. Would a bad amp gauge cause an issue? I used this gauge thingy on the stud on alternator and only bottom 2 lights on battery part are lit..... Checked gauge on a Ford tractor, every light lit up. Help!?! My dad wants his cub back... I ran one wire from alternator to amp gauge and then to starter,that's the end of hot wire from battery......
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<img src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto94341.jpg>
f trust your measuring 'device'. then looks like alt has little output. Ammeter not cause. What is it? Supposed to be a one wire alt? Only see one wire.

This post was edited by JMOR on 07/11/2021 at 03:08 pm.
 
Yes a bad amp gauge can cause that and it can also cause the alternator to go bad due to being in an open circuit. Charge wire should be on one side of the gauge and all other wires on the other side. If the amp gauge has a open it will not let the alternator work. One can test for an open with a VOM set on a high ohm setting
 
Is this a one wire alternator?

It appears to be a 3 wire. Are there terminals inside the black square device next to where the battery wire is connected? If so you may have a 3 wire alternator.

My 3 wire alternators need to be running at higher RPMs to excite the alternator.
So try running engine at full speed. I have to rev both my Farmall and Jubilee before they begin charging.
 
Grampa, In the prior post on this mini alternator I explained how to make it charge. I believe it is not a one wire, even if advertised as such. The two reat terminals are critical for operation. Please refer to that discussion and my response for hook up. If the lights work, does the amp gauge show discharge when not running, and lights on? or just turning on the ignition button should show slight discharge. If not, the amp gauge could be open and not conducting. An Ohm meter placed across the terminals with every thing turned off would tell that tail as well. Good luck, Jim
 
Yes. Those denso style are sold as one-wire when in reality they are not. I put one on my 340 and it required the extra 2 wires.
 
Jmor, sold as a one wire, appears that
it is not. I guess I will run a couple
more wires tomorrow. Which one goes to
stud in alt? And which one goes to the
switch?
 
(quoted from post at 19:15:23 07/11/21) Jmor, sold as a one wire, appears that
it is not. I guess I will run a couple
more wires tomorrow. Which one goes to
stud in alt? And which one goes to the
switch?
ow many connector pins?
 
Do you have a regular analog volt meter?

Should have the same as battery voltage at the alternator stud.

If no voltage at the alternator, there is a bad connection, possibly an open amp gauge.

When you started it, did you rev the engine to initiate the charge? Some need to be revved toy full governed speed to get it started charging.

But like others, I don't think that is a one wire alternator. But possible it is if the regulator has been modified.
 
Jmor on my Fords I use a mid '80s Chevy
truck alternator, one spade connector
goes to ACC on key switch and the other
one goes to the big stud on alternator.
I don't have a fuse box on this
cub......
 
(quoted from post at 20:14:16 07/11/21) Jmor on my Fords I use a mid '80s Chevy
truck alternator, one spade connector
goes to ACC on key switch and the other
one goes to the big stud on alternator.
I don't have a fuse box on this
cub......
he idiot light and the other are BOTH switched live and ACC is an ok place to get that.
 

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