This is Why I get rid of fluid in tires.

rockyridgefarm

Well-known Member
I ordered new rims for the 3010 I bought last fall. I had assumed the old rims were original and junk from fluid. Turns out I was very wrong. This is an unverferth rim that is only maybe 20 years old. I guess I wasted $450, or maybe not. I am gonna use this one on my other 3010 now. I bought some iron weights yesterday, and fluid is not going back in


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When the tire guy told me $450 a rim, I was almost tempted to dig my fire pit ring out and see if it was really all that bad


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Yep !

Dont know this rims history but it was a original 8 inch i think , any way heres my results ,replaced this year .,

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Glad it replaced , on to something else , show next week
 
Just picked my rim up the other day from a
local welder I go to.
He fixed a rusted out valve stem hole. Cut
a piece out of an identical rim that I had
for patching material. Welded into the rim
I had fixed. Drilled a new valve stem hole.
Ground the welds smooth.

$70, and I was on my way. I never even
tried to price a new one, or good one from
salvage.

Now the burden of putting it all back
together. I tore it all down myself. Even
draining the fluid and dis-mounting the
tire.

I'm not putting fluid back in. Done the
other side a few years ago. Left the fluid
out of the other side. So this whole time.
The tractor had one side with fluid, the
other side just air.

Not going to advise anyone one to work on
one of these themself, if they don't have
any means to lift and maneuver an entire
rear wheel. And got another tractor and a
wood plank to drive on to break the rear
tire off of the bead.

Also advise using new tube when going back
together (if no fluid again). Not sure a
guy can ever get ALL the fluid out of a
tube, once its put in there.
 
Dennis, your rims were quite a bit worse than mine!

Grandpas 3010 has a hopeless rim on it. I have not been using it outta fear of a blowout on the downhill side. Hope to get the tires with new rims mounted today or tomorrow

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We have had and still have fluid in tires on tractors. The problem comes is when the owner does not repair leaks when they come right away. We have tractors the age of your 3010 and older that the
rims are still good. It is all about how much maintenance gets done.
 
And once the salt water has soaked into the rim, it's about impossible to get it out of the steel. After removing rust/scale mechanically, I've found my hot/high pressure washer(almost steam) is about as good as it gets.
 
I have a rim off my Ford 841S in my shop right now that I am patching up due to a big area that is rusted out. I've repaired a good many rims over the years and while not a fun job doing so can work
 
100% correct. I have 45 year old original rims... loaded. Every year or two, throw away the entire air/water valve and install a new one. Before inflating I pack the area above the valve with heavy grease so it is blown through the interior of the valve, the calcium cannot touch the corrodible parts for several months. In the case of a puncture, just have to bite the bullet and get it fixed, not wait until you can see the inner tube through the valve hole.
 
Some guys complain cause they only got 20
or 40 or 80 years out of a set of rims 'due
to calcium'.
I sometimes wonder if they also complain
cause they only got 10K hours on a set of
rod bearings.
Rims, like tires, rod bearings, mufflers,
tie rod ends, etc are perishable items.
The rim below was 52 years old when
I had to rehab it a few years ago.
After sandblasting, a bit of brazing, a
good coat of primer and 2 coats of paint,
it will likely go another 50 years.
When I finished fixing it I pumped the
calcium back in. Because despite the
problems it can cause - usually due to lack
of maintenance - it is still the best bang
for your buck.

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I also believe painting is key too. On one that has been fixed.

If it's in the pores, as you say, the cancer will come back.

Rust supposedly needs oxygen from air to happen. Kill the air exposure to surface metal, kill the exposure to oxygen, eliminate rust from happening by doing so.
Kind of my theory on that.
 
I just came in from the shop. I was welding flat plate over a hole in a rim. I am letting it cool now so a bit later I can go out and grind the area smooth. Tomorrow I'll coat the inside of the rim with a nice heavy coat of pickup truck bed liner spray so as to make sure the rim doesn't rub a hole in the new tube I am going to put in
 
So are you putting grease in the tube? Like taking out the valve core and shoving grease in there? Or just greasing around the outside of the valve stem?

My tires are loaded and I notice it leaks out calcium if I remove the valve cap.
 


Now let me think here. For how long have tractors been running tubeless tires? 30 year or so? Did they stop putting CaCl in tires then? Noooooo they did not. Are thousands of modern tractors running around on flats? Nooooo. When they get a leak they fix it. They are not pushing Oxygen in for the calcium to work with. There are tens of thousands of tractors out there with loaded tubeless tires. No big deal.
 
(quoted from post at 20:03:09 06/19/22) So are you putting grease in the tube? Like taking out the valve core and shoving grease in there? Or just greasing around the outside of the valve stem?

My tires are loaded and I notice it leaks out calcium if I remove the valve cap.

If you have fluid leaking out the valve when you take the valve cap off, you need to replace the valve and possibly the core housing if it has been compromised by the leak.
 

Every tractor on the farm has calcium chloride in the rear tires and some are older than me. I've yet to see one rusted through. If a tractor is going to do any serious pulling it needs the weight in those rear tires. Even had a 2390 Case with fluid in the front tires. Tubeless and the rims were clean and shiny inside when I replaced the original tires. I didn't replace the fluid in them.
 
(quoted from post at 23:06:01 06/19/22)
(quoted from post at 20:03:09 06/19/22) So are you putting grease in the tube? Like taking out the valve core and shoving grease in there? Or just greasing around the outside of the valve stem?

My tires are loaded and I notice it leaks out calcium if I remove the valve cap.

If you have fluid leaking out the valve when you take the valve cap off, you need to replace the valve and possibly the core housing if it has been compromised by the leak.

It doesnt squirt out or anything but there are definitely some drops that come out when I take off the valve stem caps.

Im just wondering what can be done as far as preventative maintenance to prevent rusting. Just occasionally replace the valve stem cores? And grease the cores before installing them?
 
(quoted from post at 08:49:41 06/19/22) I have heard of using bed liner on the inside of rims. Don't know if it would help.

Seems like it would be pretty rough on the tube. Most bedliners are designed for traction and have some kind of fine grit in them.

Really doesn't matter what you put on the rim. Any little scratch or flake will give the corrosion a foothold, and it's only a matter of time from there.

It is impossible to not scratch the paint.
 
(quoted from post at 14:36:30 06/19/22) For what fluid cost these days the money can buy weights and its a one time buy with weights plus tire place will charge more if the tire has fluid.

Calcium chloride flakes $25 for a 40lb bag.
Water free.

So 'spensive!

vs.

Weights at $1/lb.

This post was edited by BarnyardEngineering on 06/20/2022 at 04:33 am.
 
(quoted from post at 22:52:33 06/19/22) The tires are tubed btw.

If the valve is leaking, whether it is a stream or a drop, it is leaking, replace it. This applies to tube or tubeless. With a tube if the valve doesn't leak but you have to add air occasionally, you need to be checking the tube. You may have a leak not readily visible on the outside, but starting to rust the rim. Often first showing up as rusting around the stem at the rim hole. Calcium and air (oxygen) between the tube and rim allows rusting of the rim.
 
Yep I win on rust so far .

I dont think its the calcium.

I think its condensation that goes on , had a Farmall 560 that the side walls would sweat I thought it was leaking . It was from humidity(dew)
.

I also think that barn acids from manure are very corrosive.



Please comment on this theory?
 
(quoted from post at 08:45:02 06/20/22)
(quoted from post at 22:52:33 06/19/22) The tires are tubed btw.

If the valve is leaking, whether it is a stream or a drop, it is leaking, replace it. This applies to tube or tubeless. With a tube if the valve doesn't leak but you have to add air occasionally, you need to be checking the tube. You may have a leak not readily visible on the outside, but starting to rust the rim. Often first showing up as rusting around the stem at the rim hole. Calcium and air (oxygen) between the tube and rim allows rusting of the rim.

One of mine has a big enough leak to cause this around the valve stem. I havent had to put air in these tires in a long time, so maybe its just when the valve stem is at the 6 oclock position when the tractor is parked the calcium runs down on the rim. From the leak in the valve stem. Im not sure. Guess I could try a new valve core first.


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Your situation in that pic is really pretty common. It happens because there is oxygen at the valve stem. You had a leak, you got it taken care of except for residual calcium still inside the rim. Without oxygen it can't do anything, but around the stem, as the wheel rolls, a little air gets in a just a little way enabling the rust to eat around the stem.
 

So in my case would I need to dismount the tire and clean the inside of the rim to stop the rusting? Any way to treat it without taking the tire off?
 
(quoted from post at 06:29:39 06/20/22)
So in my case would I need to dismount the tire and clean the inside of the rim to stop the rusting? Any way to treat it without taking the tire off?


In your situation you could probably get by if you were to partially break it down so that you can deflate it and get the stem away from the hole. Then you could clean it up good inside with water and let it dry. With a grinder wheel in your Dremel, you can then clean it up good then prime and paint it. The hole would still be oversized, but the tubes are very thick in that area, and with light use it should be trouble free for years.
 
Dennis if you are seeing a visible sweat line on your tires they have fluid in them of some kind. Otherwise they would not sweat. The sweat comes from a combination of condensation and temperature that will happen with fluid in the tire . Air only will not do that I have found on the tires we have with no fluid in them if you don't believe me look at your front tires or other tires stored in the same place at the same time that you know has no fluid in them.
 
I had one tractor I had to replace the rims on and it was about 70 years old and fluid went back in. other tractor was about 60 years old and just had replaced rims put on with no fluid in and fluid went in as soon as I got it. Tractors I had and now are in a collection 73 yearsold and 71 years old, fluid all there life and rims are still good.
 
Had fluid in most of tires with cast weights as well. Cannot add enough cast to equal the fluid with out the cast and with the cast already on
 

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