Help with ford 9n

Here is a video of the issue that I am having.

https://youtu.be/7u0qQJuPjHk


Here is what I replaced:

12v alternator
12v distributor and cap
New starter
New wires
New exhaust manifold
New carburetor
New resistor


I have a solenoid that I haven't installed yet, will try tomorrow

So Charlie Checkpoint hope you are better with a gun
than a wrench. Although I possibly understand why you
are doing it many on here will not. I am talking about
not having the battery cables terminals bolted on and
tightened properly. You cranked that starter a lot. That
thing pulls somewhere around 200 amps. After
cranking it that long things are bound to warm up. The
same thing happens on a car if you crank it that much
it is just hid down in there where you cannot tell it. Also
your battery cables may be a bit on the light side. So
what is the position of the throttle plate in the carb
when you did all that cranking? Idle, mid open or wide
open? Not a Ford guy but if you cranked an IH that
much with the choke on it would be flooded all to he11.
I am not sure if you have that resistor wired in properly,
it must be powering the ignition because it is firing and
trying to run. For golly sakes get those plug wires away
from the belt. And if you read somewhere the belt
should have 1 inch deflection, that means the belt is
tight and with some amount of effort you can deflect it
an inch with one finger from the straight line it makes
as it is drawn tightly between the two pulleys,
understand? Although the alternator up to this point
plays no roll in if or how your tractor starts. If you know
anything about old TV shows I am only going to add
this to give others a chuckle. ..Young grasshopper, the
mind is yet but capable of acquiring much knowledge..
; > )

A few things I see:

The alternator belt is loose, needs to be tighter, but that's not what's
keeping it from running. The plug wires need to be secured away from the
belt.

I noticed a good bit of smoke from the vent cap. How long since it has run?
Possibly the rings are washed down or dry from sitting. You might want to run
a compression test, then add a spoon full of oil to each cylinder, run the
test again, see if there is substantial improvement. Be sure to have a well
charged battery when running the compression test. It will need about 70+ PSI
in order to start.

Just getting some oil in the cylinders might be enough to get it to start.

Any chance the oil is contaminated with gas?

(quoted from post at 17:23:08 09/11/22) A few things I see:

The alternator belt is loose, needs to be tighter, but that's not what's
keeping it from running. The plug wires need to be secured away from the
belt.

I noticed a good bit of smoke from the vent cap. How long since it has run?
Possibly the rings are washed down or dry from sitting. You might want to run
a compression test, then add a spoon full of oil to each cylinder, run the
test again, see if there is substantial improvement. Be sure to have a well
charged battery when running the compression test. It will need about 70+ PSI
in order to start.

Just getting some oil in the cylinders might be enough to get it to start.

Any chance the oil is contaminated with gas?

Click to expand...

It has been about 3 months since it was sitting. Before hand was running fine and I just did a clutch job on it and replaced the stuff stated.

I did a complete oil change before installing the clutch 3 months ago

Also I pulled the plugs. Plugs completely black and not gapped properly

Did you pull the plugs before or after the video? If
before probably would not hurt to do it again. Spray
with carb cleaner then wire brush, blast of compressed
air repeat. If the throttle plate was closed/idle try
placing it at 1/4 open when starting. If it ran before why
the new resistor wired in just dangling?

(quoted from post at 18:52:23 09/11/22) Did you pull the plugs before or after the video? If
before probably would not hurt to do it again. Spray
with carb cleaner then wire brush, blast of compressed
air repeat. If the throttle plate was closed/idle try
placing it at 1/4 open when starting. If it ran before why
the new resistor wired in just dangling?

Click to expand...

After. And put the battery on a charger.

I mounted it on the tractor after the video I had to drill and tap 2 larger holes.

This post was edited by CheckpointCharlie on 09/11/2022 at 06:56 pm.

Where is the main jet knob on the new carb set? Not
being a Ford guy I looked it up. Looks like you should
turn it closed lightly seating it and then open it 2 turns.
You also must not know much about how a carburetor
works. The fuel fitting that is dripping is doing that
because the fuel in the tank is higher than the carb. So
the gas is acting under gravity and atmospheric
pressure to flow or slightly pressurize the fuel line to
the carb. Inside the carb is a small chamber that holds
the gas it will mix with the air for the engine to run on.
The gas in that chamber usually called the float bowl is
held at a certain level by a float that activate a needle
valve. The fitting you see leaking is feeding that valve,
often referred to as the needle and seat. The gas in the
float bowl kept at the proper level feeds and opening
for the main jet. The knob adjust how much gas can
flow out of the float bowl into the main jet to mix with
the air going into the intake manifold of the engine.
The passage the air flows through and the float bowl
are separated areas in the carb. The fuel line leaking
and it sucking air at that location is not possible.

(quoted from post at 19:46:47 09/11/22) Where is the main jet knob on the new carb set? Not
being a Ford guy I looked it up. Looks like you should
turn it closed lightly seating it and then open it 2 turns.
You also must not know much about how a carburetor
works. The fuel fitting that is dripping is doing that
because the fuel in the tank is higher than the carb. So
the gas is acting under gravity and atmospheric
pressure to flow or slightly pressurize the fuel line to
the carb. Inside the carb is a small chamber that holds
the gas it will mix with the air for the engine to run on.
The gas in that chamber usually called the float bowl is
held at a certain level by a float that activate a needle
valve. The fitting you see leaking is feeding that valve,
often referred to as the needle and seat. The gas in the
float bowl kept at the proper level feeds and opening
for the main jet. The knob adjust how much gas can
flow out of the float bowl into the main jet to mix with
the air going into the intake manifold of the engine.
The passage the air flows through and the float bowl
are separated areas in the carb. The fuel line leaking
and it sucking air at that location is not possible.

Click to expand...

UPDATE:

got it working literally it was bad plugs and battery. Once I replaced the 2 it started up with no issues.

For mine and everyone else sanity I did do cable management and tied the board to the tractor.

She might be ugly but she starts right up