- Thread starter sfsouter
- Start date
If you have troubles turning you can use the brakes to steer it. Got a 4020 with wide front that has
wide tires and loader with rear blade. Had to get tire chains for the rear to do anything in snow and
ice. I don't remember having much trouble with steering it ? You will really like the tire chains.
wide tires and loader with rear blade. Had to get tire chains for the rear to do anything in snow and
ice. I don't remember having much trouble with steering it ? You will really like the tire chains.
Excellent comment and I wondered if that would be ample. I was worried about the odd time we'd get serious freezing rain on top of ice or shallow snow and having front end slide, but likely not really an issue.
I chose the V-Bar chains so it will be aggressive for sure and likely a nice complement to my 84" inverted snowblower on rear 3PH.
LPgas only
Member
Yup, the turning brakes with the chains on will do the trick
BarnyardEngineering
Well-known Member
- Location
- Rochester, NY
Hmm, I can tell you I've never given it a single thought...
Our primary use of chained tractors was plowing the driveway and spreading manure. Very little, if any, travel on glare ice. Driveway is covered with packed snow which offers adequate traction. Deep snow in the field, so the tires cut right through that. If the front end ever did slide, used the brakes...
Our primary use of chained tractors was plowing the driveway and spreading manure. Very little, if any, travel on glare ice. Driveway is covered with packed snow which offers adequate traction. Deep snow in the field, so the tires cut right through that. If the front end ever did slide, used the brakes...
I completely agree until we start to get some of these unusual weather changes. All it takes is an hour of freezing rain to add an ice layer over what was once that nice traction snow layer that causes havoc for the rest of the season. Last year in Alberta was crazy with a few episodes like that and any major camber on roads can be a pain with sliding. Should no longer be an issue with chains I hope.
Loosehandle
Well-known Member
- Location
- Wisconsin
They make a huge difference, it doesn't
take much to make packed snow into ice in
Wisconsin. Big job to put on though.
take much to make packed snow into ice in
Wisconsin. Big job to put on though.
coonie minnie
Well-known Member
If I had that rig, I'd just use the front end loader and forget the blower.
oldproudvet
Well-known Member
I just use chains on the front end tool. Solves all the problems. I don't drive on pavement though.
Nothing but township gravel. Larry
Nothing but township gravel. Larry
I run chains on my 3020 to plow snow and my gas 4020 to haul round bales. Steering is no issue that's what the brakes are for. They actually turn sharper with ice. Nothing plows throw snow like a 4020 with a 1200-pound bale on the forks. I also run chains on my MF 65 with a loader and my MF 202. That MF 65 with a bale on the back and front wadded through the mud we had last spring.
Ha, thx Coonie Minnie. Bear in mind those are the blower vendor's sales pics. My rig is a '72 3020 which works for loader snow removal as well when space isn't an issue. In my application it will be in thick forest with a long narrow driveway and several feet of snow each season. If you've never ran a blower in deep snow, they are great to disperse the snow far away from roads with no pile or windrow issues.
MarkB_MI
Well-known Member
- Location
- Motown USA
In ice and snow, the front tires serve to the keep the axles off the ground and that's about it. Brakes are your friend, not only for steering but for traction control. Tap the brakes on a spinning wheel and torque will be transferred to the wheel with traction.
495man
Well-known Member
Plowed gravel driveways for years with nothing but a loader.
Using a materials bucket the width of the tractor it is the most versatile snow removal tool there is really, certainly not the best at every task, but can push, carry, pile, scrape and back drag and can handle anything from few inches to several feet with zero changes other than how you use the joystick.
Front end loader was what I had to use to break through a 9 foot deep and 30 foot thick drift after a blizzard a few years back. Type of storm the government had to use payloaders or V plows to open roads up. Was too much for my snowblower at the time to handle unless I wanted to inch it back 1-2" at a time and wait for it to clear, and that chute wouldn't turn to throw "back" so it would just dump the snow in the valley you were making in the drift.
Must have something to do with the terrain. Its hilly and everything is unlevel here. I can t make use of my loader here in the winter in any way, I ve tried. I suppose a blade in place of the bucket would help, but probably not much. I can see using it to dig through huge drifts, luckily we don’t have to deal with that very often.
This post was edited by MJMJ on 11/03/2022 at 03:59 pm.
coonie minnie
Well-known Member
??? We've used nothing but for the most part. I have a big blower, but would much rather use a loader.
coonie minnie
Well-known Member
I've used a blower, and not been all that impressed in a lot of situations- they will throw an object, not an issue with a loader. Wind the wrong way usually has snow on the cab windows so you can't see.
Here in SE WI, with 5 farmsteads to keep open, I'm happier with either a skid loader or payloader. It helps we usually don't get big dumps of more than a foot at once.
Here in SE WI, with 5 farmsteads to keep open, I'm happier with either a skid loader or payloader. It helps we usually don't get big dumps of more than a foot at once.
caterpillar guy
Well-known Member
I plow snow with an 806 with front blade off a pickup and truck tires on the front. I don't have much trouble with the front sliding plowing unless it gets packed or froze after plowing and the ridge on the edge is hard. I don't use any chains either. Just the tires. Seldom have much problem pushing or steering. More trouble backing out after the push.
495man
Well-known Member
I'm somewhat hilly, everything is uphill or downhill more or less, any surface plowed is graded and even.
Key thing is not gouging the gravel base until everything is frozen solid. I would carry the loader and inch or two off the driveway until it froze. One you have a frozen solid base you can drive with the front wheels in the air and bucket down no issues.
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