jd2cyl1943

Member
Location
Bemidji, MN
Todays progress. All the parts in the photos have been removed today.
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Here is the inside of the crank case.

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And the other thing I did today. Drain the steering gear oil.

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Feel free to offer advice. Anybody know how to remove the bearing cone from a B front wheel? The service manual wasn't much help.
 
Bob H is correct, the crankshaft is(appears to be) grooved. Careful readings with a real micrometer is needed to satisfy the demands of a rebuild. Jim
 
I agree with you there. Looks like them journals been smacked around with hyd rod bolts. Like wow. This is the most delicate surfaces and should be protected with at least wrapping around them and taping it up. I see u also have all 4 muffler bolts broke off. U will get your drilling and tapping experience here. Your showing and telling , and we are showing and telling.
 
I also see u did not keep your shims in order. They are
sitting in the crankcase. You just dont go that. Once rods
are put the shims back on with the rod caps exactly as
they came out.
 
If you dont have an acetylene torch you might want to get one or borrow one. They are priceless when it comes to working on these old tractors.
Otherwise youre going to get tired of drilling out broken bolts. Those propane torches dont get hot enough.
 
Now that things are coming apart, the best way to keep up with all the
parts, no matter how insignificant, clean what you have removed, Ziplock
bag and label all the small parts and fasteners, tag the big items, and
put them in storage tubs. You can get card stock tags with wires at the
office supply.

Hopefully you have an inside area to do the cleaning and store the parts.
Full strength Purple Power is a good, cheap, and safe (non-flammable)
cleaner but do wear rubber gloves! Once the parts are cleaned and dried,
put a little clean oil in each bag to prevent rust.

If you have some type of table, even a folding card table, it will help
keep things from getting dropped in the dirt or down inside somewhere you
can't get to.

Just some things I have picked up over the years working on my degree of
Hard Knocks! LOL
 
I would caution you not to take too much apart till you have a clear plan of things going back together. It is very easy to
get discouraged and give up when funds are short and your tractor is in a thousand pieces.



Glenn F.
 
Not designed to be taken apart, I found that out probably 40+
years ago, was going to take apart, clean and repack. About
ruined things trying to take apart on first wheel. Second
just got grease pumped in with a hand held grease gun same
way as first that I tried to take apart. That was on a 46 B,
others never tried taking apart just pump some new grease
once in a while. Never taken apart for over 40+ years. They
are put together then rivited in place.
 
The only thing I can add is take lots of
pictures. Lots and lots of pictures!
Especially considering this is mostly all
new to you. If I was doing it, I'd buy
myself an inexpensive digital camera just
for this. Much lower possibility of losing
the photos with a camera than if they are
on your phone. You can get prints made at
Wally world so you have a photo reference
that doesn't matter if you get greasy
finger prints on unlike an electronic
device. Much easier to know how things go
back together if you have photos.
 
Purple Power, soak in full strength to clean the oil-blackened internal parts. It strip painted parts too. I'll bead blast small parts or soak with
Evap0-Rust. I use empty cottage cheese containers to keep smaller parts together and labeled. Keep part groups together in boxes. Your crank looks
a bit scored but may be OK if the wear isn't bad. Post some pictures of the babbitt in the rods. Do you mean the front wheel bearings? You have to
take out the felt seal and pull the retainer to get them out and you'll probably ruin the retainer. Start with a thin chisel under the flange and you
may be able to work it out and reuse it.
 
I won't pull things like that apart outside no matter what. Just to much dirt gets inside things you can't get out after you clean it up. I also cover things up with a big rag like old shirt or pants leg ripped open. What ever is big enough. Helps but dirt still gets in. If it is not clean enough to eat off from it is not clean to me. Then I'm pretty fussy about clean where rod bearings are concerned. You will want to mich the crank throws with a mic not a caliper a mic. Then with the rods tightened to spec a telescoping gauge will give you the oil clearance to see if you need to turn the cranks and ho much you need to shim or remove shims to get proper oil clearance. Plastigage will be of value here for that on final assembly to know what you have.
 
the square oil pump coupler looks cracked. look closely to its left
corner in picture. that might be why it was parked,bad pump or
worn cracked drive coupler not pumping oil. i could be wrong but
sure looks cracked
 
Glenn ..... good advice, perhaps the best advice offered so far, but maybe a bit late now, especially for a newbie (which I would also be). I can't see the advantage of taking so many different things apart at once instead of tacking one part at a time. Hand it to the young feller though, he's tackling his adventure head on and so far seems to be doing pretty good. Hopefully his bank account can take the strain.
 
That retainer has spots punched in and they are impossible to get releaced. If I remember correctly, too many years, was back in the 60's I never did get it out to clean and repack the bearings.
 
Carefully take the screen off the oil pump and clean that out before reassembling.
 
Lots of great advice, I second the baggie
and labeling. We are in process of putting
an Oliver 880 back together two years
going.
Those notes and pictures are valuable.
You can be proud of your project everyday,
don't get discouraged. Keep up the good
work.
GG
 

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