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Welding/brazing cast

M

Mtjohnso

Member
Have a SWD9 that my son bought and mounted a blade on the front. The SWD9 has 4 mounting holes on either side of the radiator and 4 more back by the clutch housing on each side.
He only mounted this big heavy blade to the mounting holes by the radiator.
Bottom line is that we did some pushing of some dirt the casting broke right behind the mounting holes from one side to the other.
This damaged the radiator and the fan blades also.
I have everything off the tractor and need to reattach the broken cast part which is needed to support the radiator.
I have seen where people have brazed cast back together and it has held ( my Super A had the bull gear housing all brazed up before I got it. Still holding together)
The blade will not go back on the tractor. So the casting will be supporting the radiator.
The cast piece that broke off is about 3 ft wide and about 9 inches in depth. The piece that it gets attached to is about 4 to 5 ft long and 3 foot wide.
So heating it up is a problem.
I am planning on taking this to a shop, if I can find one.
Is this even feasible? What have you seen done and what method was used?
 
All it takes is the right welder using right equipment and there's some around but not in job shops. A heavy equipment or oil field welder can do it if you ask in the right way. Can you take both pieces to the welding shop? You are wise in taking it to a pro instead of trying it with interweb instructions.
 
A good weld shop will make it right. I welded a sausage stuffer cylinder that had a crack from open hole to spout 2 weeks ago. In 1976 I welded a football size chunk into a ford 4000 transmission housing (3/4 inch thick) that mounted a one arm loader.the owner put the loader back on! In both cases I used Ni-Rod alloy to do it. The Trans casting was not pre heated, but had solid peening as the skip welds were made and cooled. Jim
 
Pre-heat both parts well. Grind edges clean. Use cast rod and DC arc weld it. The shop will know all this.
 
From My brother old Press repair days they would heat it up to just less than red weld it then let cool very slowly like depending on the size and all maybe a day to half a week. Then go check the parts for threads needing run with a tap or whatever it needed. Some times it was just as easy to fill the hole and drill and tap. They did a lot of press work like that. Doubt you can find one of those places anymore.
 
Not many will brag on this, but I've seen stuff like that welded up with a mig welder with no problems.
 
If you are lucky you may have a good local welding shop.They will know how to repair it right.If not you need to make alot of phone calls to find the right welder.Getting the parts used maybe cheaper in the end.As stated below a welder who is use to welding on big heavy construction equipment would be a person to find.
 
Our Super C had welded engine tabs to the front bolster . We ran 40 years before I retired that engine.
Prepare your breaks ,preheat and weld with cast rod .
Braze rod is 55k psis so depending on your needs you could braze it. Tractor( Farmall h) at Red power fell 50 feet into the river gorge and they brazed bell housing tube in many place to repair it ,they also welded some of it. Still running . And no leaks that I could see , nice repair well done.
Youll be ok just take your time and do it right ,do not cut any corners on the preparation.
 
That is a fairly common tractor and that castingshould be available at salvage yards. The cost should be a lot less to replace it than fix it.
 
My WD9 has been welded in the same place. Probably 50+ years ago. No issues so far......Must be a weak spot.However,as said,might be easier to get an unbroken one from a salvage yard.
 
by only using the front mount holes that is what will happen. i have a super w4 here that has the same thing happen. just letting u know if your welding mind changes i have all those parts u need . just saying as doing this in a shop wont be feasible i dont think, but then location is the key also. you can e-mail me.
 
Find someone very experienced in welding cast. It would be better if it were electric welded however that would be determined by the metal itself. Often cast has too much impurities in the metal and causes it to burn up when electric welded. If it's good metal it would work. Then as large a repair that you have the entire area should be heated with a torch first. Then after the weld is done bury it in sand or something to insulate it to make it cool off slowly. Brazing would work even if the metal is bad but wouldn't be as strong. It would also need to cool slowly after the repair was done.
 
Might be a job for metal stitching. A couple of companies doing netal stitching are Reynold-French in Oklahoma, and Lock N Stitch in California. Both have websites with descriptions of the process and photos of some of their work.
 
Jon, where was it a common tractor? Never in my part of country. Never saw one. And I know where we had lunch when you were delivering to P & G at Lima. Have you retired from truck driving?
 
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