2400a 157c

I have a 2400A with a 157c motor. Motor was recently rebuilt but the company that put the tractor together is a crap company. They won t fix it so I m on my own. Less than 10 hrs and it started running rough, back firing when turned off, unable to handle anything under load. Just the other day it quit running all together. I m not getting any spark. I changer the coil and still no spark. The distributor looks like a complete hack job. Could the distributor affect the coil in a manner that would keep it from sparking? I m lost here guys. Any help would be appreciated.

What is this tractor ?

Read the first line of the post!

Yes it can. the first issue is the points. They are a mechanical switch inside the distributor that makes and breaks the current passing through the coil. The points are
opened and closed buy a four lobed cam on the shaft the rotor is on. The points have a rubbing block that that square cam pushes on to open the points causing spark.
the 4 lobe cam (breaker Cam) needs to be positioned so one cam bump/lobe id pushing the points open as far as they will go. The points need to be adjusted (mounting
screws) so that a .020 point feeler gauge fits exactly between them with no slack and no tension. Check the condition of the points by looking at them when held open with
a good light and a screw driver. if they are worn crooked, or pitted on one side with a peak on the other they are bad and need to be changed. Changing points is not
hard, but practice makes it much easier. a Video on youtube would be my first stop if I had never done it. It is not necessary to remove the distributor to do this but
it sure helps to show the process. Cleaning the points at the gap with contact cleaner, or a tiny bit of brake clean on a clean non fuzzy rag is important as a finishing
task, then a dab of grease on the cam to keep it operating for a long time. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c5gg4N7TguM Jim

I did , did not see Ihc and just 2400 was not ringing any bells. Jims got it covered.

Hello Hillbilly welcome to YT! To go a little farther on
Jims explanation of the points as a switch this means it
turns a circuit on and off. An ignition diagnostic tool I
recommend for these point ignitions is a simple 12 volt
test light you can purchase at many places especially
auto parts stores. Place its clip on end on a good clean
metal ground point on the tractor. Hold the probe end
to the terminal on the coil that has a wire going to the
distributor. If the points are work properly then that
light should flash on and off as you crank the engine.
Once you get that you should have spark from the coil.
That is 80 - 90 percent of the battle. Then getting it
through the distributor cap and to the plugs at the
right time is the rest.

My computor nothing in first post to indicate any make, just some description of engine in size. That is all. I use classic so could classic cut something that was in modern off?

There is nothing in his first post to indicate what he has, just 2400a 157c and that is all untill after he is asked what he has.

Since we are spitting at one another at the coffee shop this morning Im going to stand my ground ! The topic is 2400A 157c. The opening line is I have a 2400A with a 157c motor. I found the same information on both classic and modern. Im not a red tractor expert and still somehow construed that the question pertained to such a model. Thanks for your attention to detail. I will try to be less vile than my peers next time I participate.

sorry about that. I m not very good at these forums. It s an international Harvester, 2400 a loader tractor with a 157C motor. I bypassed the wiring to make sure I m getting 12 V to the coil, still nothing. They replace the old distributor with an electronic one, but they hacked it up. Not really sure how to go from here.

sorry about that. I m not very good at these forums. It s an international Harvester, 2400 a loader tractor with a 157C motor. I bypassed the wiring to make sure I m getting 12 V to the coil, still nothing. They replace the old distributor with an electronic one, but they hacked it up. Not really sure how to go from here.

Thanks I ll give it a try. I suspect it might be the distributor is bad but don t know why it would go bad so soon after being rebuilt. They really hacked it together though.

I had no Idea it was Electronic Ignition. No the steps are: make sure the ignition is getting power. There should be three leads (assuming it is the most common
Pertronics device) if not use the appropriate diagram!!!. If the wiring is correct, it may have failed. if doubtful, rewire. Jim

(quoted from post at 12:28:23 10/05/23) I had no Idea it was Electronic Ignition. No the steps are: make sure the ignition is getting power. There should be three leads (assuming it is the most common
Pertronics device) if not use the appropriate diagram!!!. If the wiring is correct, it may have failed. if doubtful, rewire. Jim
<img src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto164255.png>

<img src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto164256.png>

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m just going to replace the distributor and see what happens. Took it to a place caller Stollers. If you ever see that name, run the other way. Less than 10 hours after they supposedly repaired it and I have to fix it because they refuse to back their work. The distributor cap doesn t even fit right. I can move it around when its fastened down. There were 2rubber grommets holding the arm up. I assume so the arm would contact the metal for the coil. Its a mess.