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Chain saw information

3

37 chief

Well-known Member
I have a Husqvarna Rancher 55 saw, and a Echo. I used the saws when I first started mowing. I would cut wood for fire brakes when the wood was too large for my mower. I just use the saws now for cutting fire wood. I ordered a new 20 inch chain for my Rancher 55. It arrived today. The chain is a full chisel. After reading about a full chisel chain it appears to be a little dangerous. I don't remember ever using this type of chain. All my cutting is logs on the ground straight on cutting. Those of you using chain saws what is your opinion on the full chisel chain? Stan
 
They can be aggressive, but fast. You won't need to push down much. They should be fine for cutting as you describe. Not good for trimming or brush work especially on the bar tip. Jim
 
I fully support what Jim says, especially about the tip of the bar. Because these chains cut aggressively, they tend to catch and pull. That's not a good thing when you touch something solid with the tip of the bar. Make sure your chain brake works good. If you are in the habit of filing back the rakers as the teeth are sharpened down, DONT. That way it will mellow out with age. Keep the chain tight. Loose chains allow the teeth to tip, making them bite in, and buck and jump more. steve
 
Stan, I have been using the aggressive chains for years.
Cut so much faster and less work for me.
I file the rake teeth down occasionally like you should with any chain.
 
Remember the oil embargo of about 50 years ago? Shortly after that I went back to work in a shop, and they put me on the pile of chainsaws they had to repair. I was in that corner for a few years before the demand finally subsided! Full chisel chain was just coming into its own then. That's what we sold, and it's all I've ever used. I've got this farm cleaned up, and I haven't burned firewood in years, so I'll never need any more!
 
The most dangerous area of a saw bar to use is the tip and safety chains and certain bars have various devices to lower the possibility of kick back when using the tip. Most consumer bars now have small radius tips which lower kick back. Back to chain, chisel or semi chisel has very little to do with kick back. Much less than the bar tip radius or the anti kickback humps on safety chain. Modern design anti kick back chain cuts just as fast as non kick back chain in bucking cuts meaning unoticeable to the operator. Given a stopwatch and laboratory conditions It is a bit slower. It will not bore as fast, nor will it rip as fast due to the space between the links being taken up by the safety devices.

Safety is your question and the bottom line is cutter type isn't the determining factor, anti kick back features and bar tips determine that.
 
Full chisel chains are great for clean wood. Dirty wood or touch the ground and they dull faster than semi chisel. Like said the tip is the danger.
 
37 chief,

Yep it is an aggressive chain tooth profile.
It is what I use. Most other occasional wood cutter use the semi chisel profile.

You need to get the chain going before you start cutting, then you will be surprised how fast it cuts!

That is all I ever used on my wood cutting saws. My 460 wrenches came with a 7/32 full. Chisel chain

Guido. <
 
Back in the '80s I bought a 10-10 MacCulloch chainsaw because my Daddy had one. I asked for the 20 inch bar to be swapped for a 16 bar at the time of sale. I didn't realize until I got home that they put a semi-chisel chain on my saw. Daddy's saw Had a full chisel chain on it. Side by side, He could get through the same log with his 10-10 McCulloch in about 3/4 the time it took me.

So many years later (And three career changes later too.) I work in a small engine repair shop. Full chisel chain is all we sell for the larger saws. Only occasionally does someone ask for semi-chisel chain.

If you do the normal safety precautions, I think you will find your full chisel chain will cut as fast or faster than your old chain and the only possible drawback I can think of is that full chisel chain may dull somewhat faster in really dry wood, like a dead Water Oak or Pin Oak.
 
I installed the chain today. It does cut fast. I like it. I have another Husqvarna 20 linch saw. I'm going to buy the same chain for it also. Stan
 
I guess Clint was right a man has to know his limitations. I didn't know there was a difference when we used dad's old Von Ruden hydraulic saw. That was a mans saw 30 inch bar with 2 3/4 hydraulic hoses to run it that were about 15 feet long. It would kill an H if you stuck the chain with it not wide open or close to it. Sure would make that 4 cylinder talk when cutting though. Would make a man out of you running it too. Our newer saws are alll chisel chain as they call it now and work well just have to watch when you set the end of the baar on wood that it doesn't hit on the tip end.
 
I cut about thirty cords a year I have five stihls all with full chisel chains never had a problem in forty years of cutting wood
cvphoto168368.jpg
 
Once you have used the full chisel enough to get bored with it, take the next step to square ground chisel. Real tricky to sharpen, and not great for dirty wood, but fast!
 
We ended up with some square-ground on several fireline saws. Didn't last long in typical dirty fireline felling and bucking, so we filed them out with round files and they were much better. Bucking clean wood would make the square-ground shine. steve
 
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