help with making a new wire harness

I posted about my starting problem and found out my battery cables are under gauaged. When I looked over the tractor after looking over the battery I noticed the wires have been spliced and the wires are starting to crack on the outside. I am just thinking I need to take out all the wireing and redo it right away. I know from car restores electrical can give you a lot problems that are hard to find. I have not been able to find a place that sells these and with how little wires there are I am thinking I just need to go out make my own.

What I have is three questions. If I stay 6V what gauage wire do I need to run? 2nd where is the best place to by end connections (not sure if they are hardware store buyable)? 3rd what service manual for a Internationl 240 would help me if I get stuck?

I also need all new gauges except for tac since most of them are not working right now.

Thanks for all your help.

Hi, me again. The wiring diagram in the service manual should tell you what size wiring was originally used. If you can't find actual sizes, here are some general guidelines that should work OK. I tend to err on the conservative side since the difference in cost for the next size wire is negligible. You can always use a larger wire size, just don't go any smaller. The only problem with using all larger sizes is getting small lugs to fit big wire, and its hard to fit into tight places sometimes.

Charging circuit (generator to regulator to ammeter to battery): AWG 10 or 12

Headlights: AWG 12 or 14

Tailights: AWG 14 or 16

Ignition circuit & gauges (except charging circuit through ammeter) AWG 16 or 18

Crimp type terminals are available at any auto parts store. Spend the extra money & get good quality ones; I've never had good luck with the junk that places like Harbor Freight & WalMart sell.

I also prefer to solder the crimp and cover it with shrink tubing, particularly on something like a tractor that's exposed to the weather. It takes a little more time, but makes a much sturdier & longer lasting connection.

NAPA also sells wire loom material. If you're really into originality, places that cater to auto restoration sell cloth covered wire. I've never tried to buy a pre-made harness, so can't tell you where to try for that route.

Hope this helps,

Keith

Thanks for all your help on this issue. I agree with the solder and was going to do that. I will have to look around from the connections. All of my auto parts store carry the same stuff you get at walmart. That is the one thing I was not liking the idea of using. Maybe I can find a place to help out.

Am going to order the service manual today and get that going and go from there.

I"ve bought and used these wiring harnesses and ignition componets. Top notch materials, workmanship, accuracy and decent fellow called Jim that owns and run the business.
http://www.wiringharnesses.com/

Nice thing about the antique tractors is that they don't have 10 million accessories on them, so the wiring is usually pretty simple. Why, if you tried to add a 4-speaker am/fm radio arrangement to, say, a Farmall M you'd about double the number of connections on the tractor.

So don't panic about phantom electrical problems, it's not a car. My 86 Celebrity blew the fuse for the courtesy lights and horn. Then when I honked the horn, I got no sound but the "Fasten Seat Belt" idiot light came on. You shouldn't have weird things like that on a tractor. If the Ammeter says it's not charging, check the alternator wiring or the ammeter. If the lights don't work, check the light or the switch. Wiring can be usually ruled out with a multimeter set to Ohms. If it rings, the problem isn't that wire.

I would use 00 battery cables on a 6 volt system
and they should have them where truck tractors are repaired. I would use soldered lugs on them too. They're easy to make if you can find some welding cable. Don't make them any longer than necessary. Hal

NAPA should have every thing you need..............Don

Thanks for all your help so far. I asked for a quote from the website for a complete wire setup. I am ordering the manual today for it and will look it over. If it is not to hard I will do it myself.

I have to say I am so use to working on cars and trucks from the 60's to the up to now with a 2000 BMW and 2002 Honda in the house. This tractor reminds me more of my 1929 Model A but just a little more advanced. Maybe more like my dad's 1942 Dodge.

(quoted from post at 18:11:12 06/01/08) NAPA should have every thing you need..............Don

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Called them today the most they have is 2 gauge wire in stock for anything.

Goint to check my local case dealer to see what they might have. The link for the engine wire harness also does battery cables so I e-mailed them for a qoute.

I know NAPA sells brass connectors if you can get past the idiot
computer mechanic and actually find a parts man,not sure about
your tractor but Case IH part site has had some of the wiring
diagrams for my Cases, might even be able to buy it complete
(MIGHT cost more thanDIY)

here are some prices from agri-services (google them)

F240, IH240, F340-Gas, IH340-Gas
Engine Harness $ 110.00 **Note B
Head lamp harness $ 36.00
Rear lamp harness w/ conduit $ 79.00
Panel mounted fuse assembly $ 10.00
Dash lamp socket assembly $ 10.00

Just wondering in getting the service manual I see two to get the I & T Shop Manual and the binder books Service manual set. The Binder books is about twice as much as the I&T. I am wondering is the extra cash for the Binder books worth it or should I just get the I&T?

Thanks

If the original harness isn't too "cobbled up", I've had good luck removing the old harness, labeling each connector as I go, then just laying it on a bench and "copying" it with new wire and cover material. Make good notes, like if a particular wire was too long, how much to shorten it to make the new harness more "asthetic". If you're into originality, google "asphalt wire loom" and come up with a jillion places to get the bona fide stuff. Personally, I just wrap it with electrical tape, or that corrugated plastic stuff that looks cheesy but would do the job. I & T manuals are next to useless for wiring- most don't even have a wiring diagram. Other comments here on wire size, connectors, soldering, etc. are right on target, I think.

Hey me again,

Ok I feel real dumb now but I just took for granted this was a 6V system but he converted it over to 12. Was looking over the engine and noticed it had a alt instead of a generator. Then looked at the battery and felt very very dumb.

This week I going to start tearing apart the wiring since I know it is in bad shape with being cracked and exposed. What I have a question about now it should I keep it 12V or should I go back to 6V.

The tractor I want to have it looking nice and maybe even go to a few shows with it with our 69 International truck. But I want to be able to use it all year round moving earth and mowing grass when warm and moving snow in winter. I am just not sure if a 6V system would be good for this. If I stay 12V should I keep all the gauges the same?

Thanks for all your help. I have the service manual and I have to say that is going to help me out a lot now with everything.

Forgot to ask 12V should I keep it + ground still?