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O.T. F350 Clutch woes

K

Kevin (FL)

Member
Well I bit the bullet and ordered a SB clutch kit--one large plus shipping. The other night the pedal went to the floor and I heard much metal-to-metal racket in the bell housing--that can't be good. The OEM clutch left much to be desired--especially when we pulled in the mountains.

Now I'm debating on whether to hire someone to do the job or do it myself (along with 16-yr old son "helping"). Any of you tackled this one? Any pointers or words of wisdom? We have a transmission jack, air tools and a slab, but it's nice and hot this time of the year.

The truck is a 2001 SRW diesel.
 
we did an 01 f350 sd diesel last year. be careful, that dang transmission is one heavy rascal. if you have a trans jack it shouldnt be too bad. change the slave cylinder while you are in there, ford had some problems with them.
 
Glennster,

Thanks for the reply. We just got a large 2000# trans jack. Haven't even looked under the truck but I assume the transfer case has to be dropped too. (This one is 4x4 model.) Did you have to support the rear part of the engine? Also wondering about the shifter removal and reinstall-any problems here?

Thanks again.
 
If you have never done this before, you may want to get a price from several mechanics, may not be as much as you thought. These things are heavy. If you do it your self make sure the transmission is attached to the jack real good. It is real important to have the clutch aligened to the pilot bearing in the flywheel, just a little off can cause a lot of problems when you are reinstalling the trans. Check the surface of the flywheel it should be resurfaced if not in good shape. Just take your time you will probably be able to do it. The noise was probably the throw out bearing falling apart. stan
 
37chief,

I've R&R'd clutches before--just not on the Ford PS 6-speed. The SB clutch kit comes with new paddle clutch, flywheel, PP, HD clutch fork, throwout bearing, TO bearing pivot & kevlar pilot bushing. Our trans jack is fairly large--capable of lifting 2000#'s, but like you said, the tranny will be secured to the lift pads.
 
that trans is heavy as others have said but the shifter comes out easily I think 6 torx bits at the top I remove the transfer case from the trans before trying to pull the trans. when dealing with a 4x4 it just makes it easier to handle and gives you more room to wiggle the trans out and in and the transfer case is easily removed (win win) the rear of the engine will be fine as long as you have the trans jack under the trans the weight of the trans will pull it down when the cross member is removed and I don't like that but the engine alone should be fine.that truck should have the upgraded flywheel (one piece) if not that may be your problem the 2 piece flywheels make noise like metal but the clutch spits the springs out too then the clutch won't disengage (in most cases)
 
we used a jack under the motor just for a little extra support. looks like you are putting the heavy duty clutch fork in there too, good idea, the fork was a weak point also on these trucks. not a real bad job to do, like the other guys said, take your time, be sure everything is supported so nothing slips, (again, that trans is heavy!!) aint like putting a muncie in a nova !!, check everything as you go.
 
Thanks Roy--On the shifter removal, I assume to put it in neutral like other standards? Also, I'll drop the transfer case too--figured I had to but just hadn't looked under there yet. Planning to start on Thursday and parts should arrive from Indiana on Friday. I'm hoping there's no damage to the input shaft on the transmission.
 
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