Wood stove-Fresh air intake?

I am thinking about hooking up a fresh air intake into my wood stove, my house is very air tight. There is a 1" plug on the back of my stove that is for an optional electric draft kit and was wondering if I just piped that outside if that would work? Where do most fresh air intakes hook up to on the stove?
 
I have a fresh air intake on my pellet burner. I do NOT have it hooked up. The stove works fine.
Bottom line: I didnt want to drill another hole in the side of my house.

I have a new home by the way.
 
Our Phoenix Hearthstone is designed with a fresh-air intake; it's 3 inch diameter and is at lower rear of stove. The chimney protrudes into the carport and was built for this.....or similar stove. The flexible/expandable air intake tube extends thru the chimney. WORKS GREAT!! Whether a one inch opening is enough, I have no idea.

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A lot of stoves have air intake underneath the base. If so, you can take air from under the house. A manual would explain this and might show an optional outside air kit.
 
The hole on my pellet burner is about a 1.5 Inch diameter. I would buy a 1.5" PVC pipe to connect to it, IF I were to hook this up I would drill a hole in my floor in the great room and run the pipe into the crawl space. (I still aint hooking it up cause I dont need too)
 
The rule of thumb for air intake is the same size as the flue Pipe..
Having an air tight house makes it hard to keep the stove working properly. If your heater and hot water heater take air from the outside, you wood burner should also. It means there is not enough air available in your house (VERY AIR TIGHT) to aid in proper combustion.
I'm surprised your smoke detectors are not going off!
Guido. :oops: :idea:
 
On my stove the fresh-air intake pipe hooks directly to the stove, just like the stove pipe does. It's just on the intake side.............
 
The Minnesota code indicates approximately 50% of the total flue size should be used. Heated gas has much more volume than the cold intake air. Direct input to the zone of the fire is best, an iron pipe (not sheet metal) with outlets directed into the actual fire causes highest heat to be generated in a solid fuel based system. Turbulance and high heat pyrolize more of the fuel and produce much lower emmissions (higher efficiency) than a smoldering fire coking the chimney. JimN
 
It's got an internal damper; just inside of where the pipes connects to the stove. First pic is of the 3 inch pipe coming through the chimney and connecting to stove; other is picture of handle (black lever) which controls damper.

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The biggy of using a fresh air intake is you're not sending the air you just spent money heating, back into the firebox and up your chimney. By using outdoor air in your firebox you'll gain some heat. Also, unless your house is wrapped in a big plastic bag... the fresh air intake will eliminate cold air being sucked in from any cracks around doors and windows etc.

Any amount of air introduced into the box will help far as your pipe fitting on the back goes. I'd just go with what's there and use steel pipe just in case an amber gets kicked back to the hole.
 

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