Allis B oil pressure problem

I was looking back at that last thread today, and im going to work on the timeing.

Another issue, theres no oil pressure when were pulling it. Where do i start looking??

What have you got for an oli pressure guage on that thing Lanse? We overhauled a WD for a guy a few years ago. He had a new guage and it wouldn't register. Those things only carried 8-10 pounds new I believe.

What have you got for an oil pressure guage on that thing Lanse? We overhauled a WD for a guy a few years ago. He had a new guage and it wouldn't register. Those things only carried 8-10 pounds new I believe.

a new gauge. Brand new. Its from yuppie supply, which could explain this.

I'll break out the old one and try again

Lance you need a gauge that will read say 30 PSI max and one that goes to 20 PSI is better. You also have to have the correct filter on it and have the little tube that goes up into the filter or you will not have pressure. I use Wix57011 filters and they work well

Lanse

Oil pressure guage. Probably zero to 150psi fsd.
Oil pump.
Pressure relief valve.
Oil level in sump.
Did you prime the oil pump before turning it over?

Remove plugs, oil valve gear (or even remove push rods to reduce loading in cam area) and cylinders, fill oil gallery and tow at a good 'engine turning' speed. Plugs removed will allow it to turn easily with no load on the bearings

Get oil pressure before trying to start it.
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As a last resort!! Never needed to do it myself but you could even flood the sump with oil to above the oil pump and crank the engine SLOWLY to get oil flow. Then remove the excess oil before trying to turn the engine fast with the crank splashing in oil - liquids are not compressible!!
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Then get that timing right, change the leaky pump, fit a piece of string or wire to the choke butterfly, replace push rods (if removed), fill the cooling system with hot water, dry those plugs with a torch, pop them in and go at a good tow speed - to try to start it on the main jet (faster than the idle jets in the carb).

When it starts, keep it going at a good rpm until hot, adjust for main jet metering then lower the revs to a little over tickover and play with the slow running needle, gradually lowering the revs until you have the slow running side and the main power jets sorted/balanced.

Of course, check for leaks, continuing oil pressure, nasty sounds, temperature, etc while you are doing all this. It should now be well hot and ready to tighten down the head gasket.

While still hot, loosen each bolt in turn by about 90 degrees and re-torque to full tightness. Do this for each of the head bolts in the tightening sequence given for the head. You might want to do it a second time later after some more running. Reset valve clearances as these will have been reduced a the head is pulled down tighter.

Should go if manifold is good, no air leaks and carb is somewhere near base settings.

Good luck.

Regards, RAB

If the new filter is pleated paper its the wrong filter. It has to be the old style and you get no pressure. And then there are those other details about the tube, pump priming, and that its low pressure to begin with.

Gerald J.

this one goes up to either 40 or 60. Could explain that....

There is the tube in there, and i know its a wix fiter from the local auto parts place although i dont know the number. The amazing thing is they had it in stock

Thanks RAB!!

Well, theres plenty of oil in the engine, and a oil pump rebuilt by DickL, so im not too worried about that.

Last time b4 i tried to start it i unhooked the fitting directially above the oil pump and dripped oil from a can into the pipe until it was full, put the oil line back on and chained it up.

Like i said, my gauge reads up to 60 lbs, which could be my problem here.....

no, there apperes to be cotton or some cloth like stuff in there

If the pump is brandy new it probly won't wiggle the needle on a 40 pound gage. Loosen the oil line that comes out of the pump the next time you pull it and see if you get oil coming out around the fitting.
To prime the pump you need to remove the line coming out of the pump and squirt oil down that pipe. I think you have been thru that already.
Did you take the pump apart before you bolted it to the block? If you did, did you make sure you used the thin gasket under the pump cover?

I forgot that I already had the oil pump bolted to the block before it was sent down. All that was needed was to prime it.

There is 2 types of Wix filters that fit. One is wrong and will cause that problem the other is correct and work well. I gave you the number for the correct one

Lanse, you probably have oil pressure. They run about 10 to 15 psi normally. Your 60 psi max gauge may not be able to read that low, or you may not be able to see the needle move from the seat. The way I get ignition timing close enough to run is with #1 on top dead center, rotate the distributor with the switch on looking for a spark from the coil wire. The instant it sparks, stop turning. You'll be close enough for it to start.

no, i diddnt touch it

I'll give it a whirl, thanks again man