-OT- Heater Diverter 2000 Chevy S-10

in-too-deep

Well-known Member
Hey folks, hope you"re all doin" well. I have a problem with my S-10 with 4x4, 4.3 v-6, A/C. The heater blows hot air, and the A/C blows cold, but the selector to go from floor or panel or defrost doesn"t work. Nothing coming out at the floor, some at defrost and the rest at the panel. The compressor DOES come on when I turn the switch to defrost or A/C.

Can anyone tell me where to start looking for the problem? It used to work great and you would feel and hear a definite change in the heater output when you turned the switch to a different position, now, nothing.

E-mail"s open, and my number is (218) 766-3606 in case anybody wants to chat about it. Thanks!
 
havent hear from you in a while!!! rumors a floatin ya ran off and got married to some hottie up there in minnie-soter!!!
your heat control switch uses vacuum and cable operated shudders. you may need to remove a couple acess panels or possibly the radio to see the backside of the heater controls. confirm that all the levers and cables are moving. check for vacuum at the switch behind the heater control panel. there should be a line coming from the engine to supply vacuum to the switch.. sometimes the vac line will dry rot and crack. also check any cables that activate the shudder doors in the heater box, see if one popped off or broke.
 
That is likely the actuator which is the switch behind the control knob. Probably expensive. It works like a dimmer switch to move the control vane to the proper air duct. I have tried to clean them to no avail.
 
Hey Glenn, no weddin' bells yet ; )

Sounds like I might not have to tear the whole dash out. Sounds good.

I'll try getting in behind the HVAC controls and radio and see what I can't screw up : )
 
Glennster is on the right track, but some have motor drive actuator doors and the drive gear breaks, usually the one by the accelerator pedal, most likely a bad vacuum line though, good luck!!
 
Alright, tore my dash apart, have vacuum, vacuum changes with the position of the switch. Found actuator, it works, and the little steel rod moves back and forth with the switch, but nothing happens. Must be the door then, since I found everything else to be working. Do I access the diverter door and linkage under the hood or do I have to get nasty and dive into the rest of the dash?
 
Some of those s/10 4x4s are starting to suck transfer case oil out of the three port switch on the left side of the t-case through the vac. lines, the vac. reserve tank, the selector switch and the door actuators. Hope it's not your problem but something to check.
 
I had a Chevy 3/4 ton truck that was used on costruction jobs had hot hoses to & from the heater, but no heat in the cab. I called a dealer and he to check to that door on the heater to see if anything was blocking the door. I found a hand full of pencils and pens. No problem after these were removed. Hal
 
Thanks for mentioning that. I had the trans rebuilt last winter and that checked out ok. I do have vacuum, enough to tug at my finger when I hold it over the end of the line. Don't have a gauge, though.
 
Hmm...I spose I could've dropped something down the defroster opening. The linkage to the door works though...hmm.
 
It's in the default mode. Had the same thing happen to my 92 S-10. I took it to a garage and they had to replace the vacuum switch connected to the lever you move on the dash, sorry , I don't know the name for it. It was leaking vacuum so there wasn't enough suction left to move the doors.This might not be what's happening in your case, but it's one of the potential problems. Jim
 
Son got an S-10 blazer, where a mechanic had disconnected and plugged the vacuum line to the heater door. Seems it worked better without the vacuum line. Might try that as a cheap trial. May work for your car, and reversable if not.
 

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