O/T Pickup Help !!

Old Roy

Well-known Member
1997 S-10 5 speed, had two universals replaced , were dry and one was extra bad, Has split drive shaft . front unit looks like it was replaced less than 5000 miles ago. carrier feels normal and paint and sticker are still on the front half.

Problem : 40-48 mph solid vibration like a bad universal. no matter what I do it stays the same.
ie. coast by pushing in the clutch , taking it out of gear , adding throttle or releasing it .[testing for pinion/ring gear lash] all the same rumble

I can't feel it in the gearshift,or the steering wheel. Thinking it may be a rear wheel bearing I checked for leaking seals on axle, and they are dry. wheels are all tight. got me stumped. and seems to be getting worse.
 
Roy,

There is a HUGE difference between wheel speed vibration and prop shaft vibration. The shaft spins almost three times faster so the vibration feels "quick". A wheel vibration has a slow, almost , tedious/monotonous feel to it.

If you just had a U-joint replaced, recheck it. A joint too darned tight will vibrate just as bad as one that is loose and going out.

Allan
 
check to be sure u-joints are timed, and also check engine and trans mounts. spent a bunch one time getting rid of vibration due to bad motor mount.

Dave
 
Old Roy I have had two s10 V8 extended cabs. I now have neither because I could not correct vibrationon either one. Ex cabs are notorious for vibration. JUst a bit of info. Bernie STeffen
 
My brother had a 91 S-10 Blazer ( manual Trans.) that had a vibration problem. Dealership replaced clutch, transfer and u-joints all at their cost. One day when a friend of his got out the vibration started up, when they got back in it stoped. He took it to another dealership and the shop foreman said it was common for the cab mounts (rubber) to go bad. They replaced the cab mounts ( again at the dealerships cost) and that took care of the problem.
Just my 2 cents..
 
Same problem on my "99 fullsize ex cab. Problem existed before I did some rear end work last winter (brakes, bearings, etc). Replaced both universals on rear shaft before putting it all back together - still the same vibration at about 40 mph. My fiances neighbor who does driveshaft rebuilding as part of his automotive business told me he will re-balance entire driveshaft for $90 AFTER I replace the other universals and the center support bearing. He politely told me I did the job half azz and I awkwardly admitted that I figured that but was already balz-deep in the project and had to stop somewhere. He pointed out one place where a counterweight used to be on the shaft. Live and learn I guess.

Good luck,
Bill
 
When replacing a U-joint, it is common practice to take a paint stick or a piece of chalk and mark everything before the old U-joints come apart to keep the factory balance. Then you line everything up exactly the way it was as you replace the U-joints. Was this done?
 
I had a 91, it developed a vibration that felt like the engine was missing, but only when it was in gear (it was an automatic). Turned out to be bad motor mounts was creating a bind somewhere, the new motor mounts cured everything.
 
I would say yes as we had the truck in gear when drive rear drive shaft was removed. The rear end was on the ground and the rear yoke on pinion never moved.
 
I had a 93 Dakota auto had that miss type of vibration, after coil,plugs wires it still had that miss until one day she stopped going.--Ended up being a torque converter coming apart.

$1400.00 later ran fine. What a trip!!
 
uoy might check the splines on the front of rear shaft & the socket that they slide into that would be the shaft that si suported by carrier bearing, I had one wear Splines out, had to replace both inter & outer Shafts, on a long WB ford van and it did the same thing,
 
I would say it's the slower kind you are talking about. the reason I question myself is If a wheel bearing I think it could be felt in the steering wheel if on front.

If on rear wouldn't the seal go first and leak before bearing would go bad? Forgot to mention 143.000 miles on it
 
But, if the drive shaft has splines, was the two pieces taken apart to replace the u-joint. If so, the yokes may have been moved relative to one another (timing)!

Yes, it will be faster vibration.
 
i had an 86 s10 5spd do the same it was the input bearing in the trans.did it in all gears at any speed. dont think the shafts can be misaligned there is a wide tooth coming off of hanger shaft so rear shaft will only go on one way

good luck with that one sounds like a lot of possibilities
 
It could be as simple as a tire with a broken belt, that would cause a vibration at a certain speed, and not quit when coasting or under throttle.
Check for a swell in one of the rear tires. If it was on the front it would shake the steering wheel.
 
Some "far out" things to check after checking the others first,
Slide spline between two shafts, Rear transmission mount, Rear axle alignment, (pitch and yaw), frame bent?
 
Do you have anything like running boards or steps attached to cab or box and then connected directly to frame ? Many times people add accessories which tie cab or box directly to frame which then transfers normal vibrations directly to cab without dampening effect of rubber cab mounts.
 
Problem started when replaced the u Joints
no problen befour ujoint change.
Drive shaft is made in two pieces three u joints correct.
If so the u joint are out of phase {timing]
Drive shaft hase a spline at the center u joint
If the spline is one or two splines off,you will have a vibration.
seperate the spline at the center of the drive at the carrier.
bearing re spline with all three u joints in line with each other.
Happens often on a two piece drive shaft.
 

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