O/T : S-10 fuel pump

greygoat

Well-known Member
Thanks, friends, for the good advice. Turning the
key on and off for a few seconds before trying
to start it solved the problem, for now.
My shop has a pit in the floor, and an overhead
I beam, with hoist, for pulling engines, so i'm
toying with the idea if lifting the box to replace
the pump
Meanwhile, a local salvage yard owner, and friend
says the problem is with the "Fuel Pressure
Regulator" Anyone got ideas about that?
(99 Chev S-10, 2.2 liter, 134 cid, 4 cyl)
 
i'd lean toward the pump. pulling the box is the easy way to change the pump. about 6 bolts up from the bottom, disconnect the ground straps, fuel filler neck and unplug the tail lamp harness. prolly about half hour to get the bed off. spray up the lock ring on the sending unit with yer favorite penetrating oil, and good to go.
 
I had a Chevy Citation with the 2.5L engine and it would just quit running down the road, but would usually restart right away. It kept getting more frequent for stalling and I welded
a 1/8 female pipe fitting on the gas line from the filter to the TBI using silver solder. I used a 1/8 pipe nipple to protect the threads and I drilled a hole into the gas line. After installing a fuel gauge I noticed the fuel pressure would drop off when accelerating up a hill. I pulled the gas tank & pump and found the sock on the pump inlet full of rust. After cleaning the tank I installed a new pump from Pep Boys & sock. That fixed the stalling problem. Hal
 
ElToro, I had a similar problem with 1985 Ranger. First time I thought I had gotten water in the gas tank. Sometimes I could be driving with the pedal al the way on the floor and it would only go 50mph. Finally pulled the bed and dropped the tank. I replaced the pump/guage sender assy. The first time I started the engine I heard the pump running inside the tank and I suddenly realized that I had not been able to hear it in a long time. I took the old pump and connected it to 12v ps and bucket of water. It would pump for a while and then slow down. I could tap on the side of the pump motor an it would speed up and shoot a stream. The bronze bearings in the pump had worn out. I never let the fuel guage get below 1/4 after that. Rangers have 2 pumps, 1 in tank and 1 on frame.
 
My neighbor was watching when I pulled the tank & pump. He said I wouldn't replace that pump. I said I don't like having to pull the tank twice.

He has a phd. in math and his wife told me he was going to install a security system in his home. He said they will send out some young kid that didn't finish high school to install it. She said he bought several books and started the installation until he hit a live electric wire when drilling through the wall. Then he had to get that kid to finish it. Hal
 
My bet is the fuel line tween the pump and were it connects to the steel/plastic line in the pump module has sprung a leak,,, seen it quite a few times,,, it still gits a pump assy.

The check valve and pressure regulator are both the same thang,,, mounted on the fuel rail,,, block off the return after the pressure regulator to eliminate it.

""Beware the pump can make 100 plus PSI"" with the pressure regulator blocked off.

Those 2.2's are know for the injectors to leak externally,,, if they did you would know it.

If it has rubber fuel lines on the return side of the regulator then you can safely pinch it off to block the return,,, it plastic you are on your own.

A fuel pressure gauge would B rite handy,,, a old AC gauge has the same hook up wink wink
 

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