Got co-op E3 was not stuck when bought in winter Covered stack, picked-up in late spring. Stuck Time is not a factor. Was thinking turpentine and atf 50/50 Was at menards turpentine 10.00 qt. OK paint thinner , acetone, host of other thinners also. What would you guys use, or just bite the bullet and pay 20.00/cy for guaranteed stuff??
- Thread starter Wilson
- Start date
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
What stuff are you refering to with the 20.00/cylinder that is guarenteed, i'd be more than happy to buy it, none of the mixtures that have been talked about have worked
A "Witches Brew" of Diesel Fuel,,,,,,,Brake Fluid,,,,,,,Auto Tranny Fluid,,,,,,,,get in cylinders n let soak a long time then slowlyyyyy and gradually try to turn n rock it forwards n backwards just a lil at a time...
I will call you again next week or so or call me
John T
I will call you again next week or so or call me
John T
I forgot to tell you that I used a piece of 2 X 2
oak and a big hammer and tapped on those connecting rods and drove them out. Two sleeves came out with the pistons. Used a torch to get the pistons out of the sleeves. Pulled the engine since I wanted to clean out the sludge.
Makes it easier to work on too. Hal
oak and a big hammer and tapped on those connecting rods and drove them out. Two sleeves came out with the pistons. Used a torch to get the pistons out of the sleeves. Pulled the engine since I wanted to clean out the sludge.
Makes it easier to work on too. Hal
Better make sure it is not a valve or two that is stuck. You can drag a tractor all over creation on a stuck valve until a push rod bends before the engine will turn over. If you have not checked them yet it might be worth a shot. All the magic potions in the world mixed together poured down a spark plug hole in an over head valved engine will un stuck a stuck valve. In reading your time line I would still put some thin oil of choice over the pistons.
Mike Aylward
Well-known Member
Wilson, for what it's worth a friend of mine once loosened up a really stuck engine by doing the following. He had the head off and put about an inch of brake fluid on top of each piston. He then took a torch and set the brake fluid on fire. (Yes, it will burn after you get it going. It is very hard to light but will burn.) The heat from the burning fluid warmed the cylinder walls but the remaining fluid kept the pistons cool. The brake fluid also seeped down the sides of the pistons after this warming cycle. Brake fluid gets pretty warm but burns slow..it looks like a can of sterno burning with a nice, blue flame. But it worked. Mike
James Howell
Well-known Member
Used PB Blaster on "Lazarus" our 40B.
Have now switched to 50% ATF / 50% Acetone.
Have now switched to 50% ATF / 50% Acetone.
We use Iron Etch, made by Martin Seynour paints and sold at NAPA. This stuff works every time, and it's fast. It's an acid used for sheet metal prep for bodywork, but it works great for stuck pistons. Pour about a 1/2" on top of the piston, let it sit overnight, and knock it out with a block of wood and big hammer the next morning. Helps to have someone put a bar on the flywheel too to help pull down on the connecting rod.
old
Well-known Member
- Location
- Camdenton Missouri
I do stuck engine all the time and I always use ATF nothing else and so far havs worked well as in only 2 or 3 out of 20 plus that did not pop free
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
Alway check the gallon cans when buying chemicals,I bought a gallon of turp for 12.50.Bought some brake fluid, pints were 2.50, a quart was 6.00.Last quart I bought was 3.60.Pays to look at all size containers when buying.
I rebuild Wisconsin 2 cylinder engines, and
seldom find pistons stuck in them. It's usually
stuck valves If I can get them moving, even a
little bit, and have enough opening to drip
something down the valve stems, then keep rocking
it, eventually they (usually) come loose.
Continental engines are the same way,and I suspect
your Co-op has a flat head engine.
Chrysler Industrial ?
seldom find pistons stuck in them. It's usually
stuck valves If I can get them moving, even a
little bit, and have enough opening to drip
something down the valve stems, then keep rocking
it, eventually they (usually) come loose.
Continental engines are the same way,and I suspect
your Co-op has a flat head engine.
Chrysler Industrial ?
oldhousehugger25
Member
This isn't a chemical recipe, but over on King of Obsolete site he shows where he welded a piece of heavy tubing to an old starter armature which has the bendix welded in the engaged position. Bolted back to the bellhousing, he says he then uses a long piece of pipe to turn the gear. He has salvaged a number of old bulldozers which had been under water or just set for years. Interesting read.
Good luck.
John
Good luck.
John
buickanddeere
Well-known Member
The only magic elixir is "elbow grease".
Take the engine apart and free everything up using a press, hammer/brass drift/wooden block.
You are going to cost yourself more in bent and broken parts than what you are saving in a gasket set.
Take the engine apart and free everything up using a press, hammer/brass drift/wooden block.
You are going to cost yourself more in bent and broken parts than what you are saving in a gasket set.
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
What buickanddeere said! I had a MF35 that was left here, owner told me motor was stuck. Well I seen him using the tractor 2 years befor, so I knew it was ok. I pulled it up the driveway and it wouldent budge, so I put it in the barn pulled the head, put kerosene on the pistons, tapped it lightly with a hammer and wooden block, put a pipe wrench on the front pully and got it free. New gaskets and it was off to the race's. Well not to fast with that MF35.
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