broken valve stem on a loaded tire

Need to air up the rear tires on our 2755 deere. But the little pin in the valve sem on one side is broke off. I have the brass stems wih brass caps. Are these speacial stem for loaded tires or can I just screw it out and put a new valve stem in. Also whas the psi I should be running with calcium?

Psi is Psi loaded or not does not matter. As for the stem pretty much one fits all but some say they have ones made for fluid filled tires but I have yet to find the=m amd have worked on tires for 25 plus years all of the ones I have worked with are brass or at least look like brass.
Oh 12-15 psi

I'm assuming this is a rear tire, but the proceedure is probably the same either way.

Jack up that corner of the tractor and use wheel blocks so it can't roll. Put tranny in Neutral so you can rotate the tire. Rotate wheel until the valve stem is at the 12:00 position. Use a valve core removal tool (same as on all other vehicles and bicycles). Unscrew valve core. Air and Cal Chloride will come out so protect your eyes and clothes. (It is not an acid, but just a very dense salt solution). Stand to the side and have a pail to catch the fluid. The valve core will come flying out because of the air pressure, so WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES. The fluid is probably not much higher than the height of the valve stem when it is at 12:00, but you will probably lose a few gallons.

If you are real quick, you might be able to thread a new valve core in while air and CC is coming out, but if you are not that brave or foolish, then let everything settle down and then screw the new valve core into the stem. The center of the stem also unscrews to allow filling with the liquid. Sometimes you have to hold the stem with a pliers to keep it from unscrewing.

I prefer to use a good grade of valve core such as brand name Schroeder, but any with a short tail will work. Do not use the long ones with the visible spring (they die in the CC solution). When the core is screwed in, add air. Basically the fluid is not compressable, but the tire and tube expand just a bit to become firm on the wheel rim. The air is making a compressed bubble on top of the fluid. The final air pressure should be the same whether you have fluid or not, usually in the range of 14 to 20 psi. The actual pressure is determined by the tractor's weight and tire size, but if you do not know the number, then fill it up to 12 psi, lower the jack so the tractor's weight is on the ground, and then continue to add air until the tire has about the same amount of squat or bulge at the bottom as the other rear one has.

Your tire gauge will get CC solution inside of it, so use a low pressure plastic one and flush it out with clean water a few times when you are done with it. The CC will ruin a good tire gauge.

I've done this many times, and it takes about 30 minutes.

Good Luck,

Paul in MN

If there is enough liquid ballast in the tire to run/blow out when the valve stem is removed at 12 o'clock. Drain some off.
Better to replace the entire "valve stem" instead of just the little bitty valve springy thingy.
May as well replace the other side too. It's just as rotten and ready to fail too.

Most of the valve stems are two piece The outer part of the stem should be changed about every two years. CC tends to rot the rubber "o" ring. Two of them are about $8. Changing the core doesn't help all that much.