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Bearing heat

A

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
My flail mower has a shaft from the gear drive, which is powered by the PTO. From this drive there is a shaft about 32 in in length. This shaft has a bearing at the end with the sprocket, that drives the the blade drum, by a chain. Now for some reason the shaft is being pushed toward the gear drive, putting pressure on the bearing making it hot. I don't know why this shaft has a thrust load any ideas. The chain is not tight. Stan
 
Straight cut or bevel bearings?? If bevel you may have one going bad and that will cause the push to the side causing other problems or the one getting hot maybe going bad. I have found most of the time if a bearing is getting hot it is also going bad or needs lubed
 
Maybe the area it is bolted to is not flat and it is being pulled off one way or the other at a slight angle and that also will cause one to heat up
 
Is there a retaining collar on the bearing that let go, allowing side pressure on the shaft? Collars should be tightened in the direction of shaft rotation- not everyone does that.
 
2-3-4 bolt flange bearing housing does not have to be perfectly perpendicular to the shaft. Bearing mount allows for the bearing to be at a reasonable angle and still run true, as long as the locking collar is not locked down until after the flange is tightened.
 
On my Mott, there's a splined coupling between the gearbox output shaft and the transverse shaft. It's free to slide, in fact there's a grease zerk on it, so some motion must be normal. My guess is there is a slight amount of flex in the mower housing itself, so some motion of the shaft must be allowed. I wonder if the previous owner did more than just swap the pulleys for sprockets?
 
Is it mounted to the support in a way that would allow shimming to reduce the pressure?
A new bearing could have just enough dimensional change to cause issues. If it has a step on the shaft, maybe that could be milled/turned a small amount. A bearing failure in the gear box can also push mightily against a shaft.
If it is loose with no load, put it under stress by holding the drum with blocking, and applying (manual) force to the drive shaft using a lever or bar. This might provide clues as to what was going on. What caused the original bearing to be replaced. It might be repeating history. Jim
 
You may have the answer. After thinking about the shaft it is ridgid, and not able to slip on the gear box shaft. It may have some rust inside the spline, and not able slip like you suggested. I will free it up today, and give it a try. Thanks stan
 
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