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sidkle bar mowers???

B

BLW

Member
hi gals and guys- been busy haying- but I have a question-- does anyone know of a book or sheet that talks about the sharpening etc of sickle bar mowers-- used same since I was about 10 but never had to keep them sharp= my grandfather did all that-- now I need info on what needs to be done to keep a mower cutting right--et. most important parts and settings-- I know how to time the section and sharpen it, I think but I know little about the ledger plates, and how good and how sharp they need to be--also how flat to have the bar to cut good--anybody inc. john-- if you know where I can get a book with pictures I would appreciate it thanks..
 
Owners manual for your particular machine will tell you all you need to know.Check Ebay or company that built yours if they're still in business.
 
Do you have a bench grinder with a sickle stone?

We always used smooth sickle sections, with serated ledger plates. Having good ledger plates and a sharp sickle are about all you need. Plus having the hold down clips set right.

It also helps to give the bar the right degree of "tilt", up or down depending on condition. I would think all mowers could be adjusted in this regard.

Good luck, Gene
 
I have used all methods to sharpen sickles.A 4 inch angle grinder with the knife clamped to the welding bench does the best job.The angle grinder lets you see the ground edge as you sharpen.I use under serrated knife sections.I do replace the knives on the guards when they are worn.
 
Owners manual for an IH100 or IH1100 mowers. 80 grit flap wheel on an angle grinder is hot ticket. Remember, serrated sections on smooth guards, smooth sections on serrated ledger plates.

Gordo
 
If you are going to be using a sickle a lot get yourself a Johnson sickle servicer. You can replace the sections in the time it takes to sharpen them. That is the rivited ones. Which I like better in hay. The bolt on sections work but the extra thickness of the hold downs will clump hay.
Link to servicer:
http://www.jfmco.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=161&products_id=429
 
I use an old belt driven bench grinder dating back to my grandfather in the 30s or before which has a sickle stone on one side. Stone is v-shaped with proper angles for common knife sets and grinds edges of ajacent knives at the same time. Trick is to balance the knife set to keep it parallel to the grinder shaft so all knife bevels are the same. We fabricated an overhead hanger system which slides on a horizontal pipe to help with the longer sets. You can grind a 7ft set in less than 15 minutes.
 
This would be costly and plain foolish.A 20 buck angle grinder would last forever grinding knife sections.
 
thanks guys-- I need to find the owners manual for the MF or the JD #5--also looking for the models of the two rakes (side del) i have one has MH TE 66 under the gear cover on top, it has 15" tires on each side, and two 8" dolly wheels in the back,, the other has no #'s but it is orange and has one wheel on each side PTO driven and has a weird hitch to hook to the draw bar , sort of like a motot home hitch-- anyone familier with either of these BLW
 
I gotta say I agree with Traditional Farmer and say knock them off and replace them. While at it, use bolts instead of rivets and save yourself the headaches. We switched to bolts on our 9' haybine after we bought a larger 14' machine that uses them. They both use the same sections, and now they both use bolts. Still have plenty of riveted sections on the old machine, but when they go they get replaced with bolts.

Donovan from Wisconsin
 
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