Jinxed myself at the auto parts store...

Don-Wi · Nov 3, 2010

I got the ceramic pads for my wife's car, and also a new cap & rotor for my truck (88 F150 w/ 4.9) as they didn't have any more last time I went. Got to talking with the guy behind the counter and he said his brother stripped out a hole on the dist. for one of the screws that hold the cap on. That's when it happened... I asked "How in the heck a guy can do that?

Now my truck is sitting with a screw that BROKE OFF in the distributer. Was planning to use it on Friday to haul 4 tons of pellets but now it looks like I might have to fix this old truck.... Gonna take a look tomorrow to see how hard it is to pull the distributer.

Also- whats the timing? I put the new cap in place just to get a better look at the old one, and I want to make sure I didn't cross any. Gonna scribe a mark before I pull the dist so I hope I can just drop it back in & go once I get that old screw out.

Kinda wishing I left well enough alone until Sunday now, but better to fix in early November than late December right?

Donovan from Wisconsin

Anonymous-0 · Nov 3, 2010

If in doubt, number your wires when you take them off, and take a junkyard paint ball pen, and mark the dist, at the bottom, and metal beside the dist, with 2 witness marks that line up like this ><. when you pull the dist, remember which cyl the rotor button was pointing to, or witness mark it, too! Also, cell phones have cameras on them, mighty handy to take a pic, or 2 as you dis-assemble!

Ray · Nov 3, 2010

Install the new cap and put one of those industrial plastc ties across the cap and around the distributor,it will hold forever.

Don-Wi · Nov 3, 2010

To be honest, that's the best answer I've heard in a while. I'll see if I can get a couple from work tomorrow and see if it works.

Anyone know the timing? I already put the new cap in place and switched the wires, but it was starting to get dark and I'm not sure if they're right or not. Could even be 180 off for all I know.

I tried to start it with 1 screw holding the cap just fro grins, but my grin quickly went South as the engine sounded like it made 1 or 2 revs, and then stopped like it was hydro locked. Could have only been 1 rev too, but sounded like 3. Let up on the key and turn it again, and it'd do the exact same thing. Normally would start by then.

Donovan from Wisconsin

Flurette Farm · Nov 3, 2010

How in the heck can a guy do that?

Mike(OK) · Nov 3, 2010

Firing order should be 1-5-3-6-2-4,clockwise rotation.

Paul N Texas · Nov 3, 2010

Could be that if the cap is not down good and
tight, you might have fire jumping across to
another cylinder too. I would figure the wire tie
trick should get you going through the hauling,
and then fix it afterward. I always mark the
position of the distributor in the block, and the
location of the rotor with the cap off. Pull the
distributor our, and DO NOT turn the engine over
with it out. Should drop back in and fire up OK.
As for the Hydro-lock, you may have some wires
crossed too, so make sure you have them in order.
Good luck, and check back to ask more, or let us
know it's going.

2x4 · Nov 3, 2010

You violated the first rule of mechanics: If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

Anonymous-0 · Nov 4, 2010

I know that later GM Vortec engines that still used distributors (at least up through 1999) had a POS plastic distributor housing. If you tightened the screw the least bit too tight it would either strip out the threads or break off the ear. I have seen a lot of these where people have tried to glue the piece back on or nylon cable ties holding down the distributor cap.

Soilfarmer77 · Nov 4, 2010

The firing order should be stamped or raised numbers on your intake. The distributor rotation (in the form of an curving arrow) should be on the intake as well.

oilburner350 · Nov 4, 2010

1988 Should be EFI, no firing order on the intake. The order is 1-5-3-6-2-4

I have 100,000 miles on the ziptie fix with my 1995 F150 4.9 EFI. I carry a spare zip tie and cap as insurance I will never need them

Brian Jasper co. Ia · Nov 4, 2010

One of the easiest distributors to pull unless the engine has had Pennzoil, Quaker State, or lack of maintenance.
The timing is on the sticker on the radiator support. It should be in the 10 degree advance area. Don't forget to pull the SPOUT connector when you go to set it.
When you get the broken bolts out, put a little anti seize on them so you don't have to do that again.

Don-Wi · Nov 4, 2010

2x4- It was running rough so it needed it. I already replaced the spark plugs a week ago because of it, but the store didn't have the cap & rotor at the time. Ran better but still not great.

Just got in from working on it, and got it going. Turns out the vent I used as reference in the dark for my spark plug locations, was back 1 terminal so all my plugs were 60* off.

The zip tie trick works pretty good too.

Donovan from Wisconsin

Jinxed myself at the auto parts store...

Don-Wi

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Anonymous-0

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Ray

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Don-Wi

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Flurette Farm

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Mike(OK)

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Paul N Texas

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2x4

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Anonymous-0

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Soilfarmer77

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oilburner350

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Brian Jasper co. Ia

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Don-Wi

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