Rear wheels/tires for 2wd loader use

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Tbone550

Member

• Jan 11, 2011

• #1

I"ve got a 2WD JD 2150 (45 hp) with a 175 loader on it for general use. Even with this relatively weak loader it"s easy to unload the rear tires and spin "em. The ground I operate on is either dry or just greasy on the surface.

Buying a 4WD isn"t an option at this time although I wish it was. A weight box for the rear is also out because I need the 3-pt hitch too often.

Rear tires are nearly new 14.9-28"s on stamped wheels with fluid in the tires and 100 lbs of extra weight on each rear wheel. I"ve been offered a set of cast rear wheels/tires in 18.4-26 which came off of an industrial 2150. The seller wants $500 for the set, and one of the tires would need to be replaced also at $700 extra. The tires themselves would be heavier, the cast centers are a LOT heavier, and the tires would hold more fluid. They would also be wider and taller.

What are your opinions? Would I gain significant traction making the switch? Or would I be better off loading down the wheels/tires that are on the tractor now? Just want to make the best decision for the money.

 

K

Ken Macfarlane

Well-known Member

• Jan 11, 2011

• #1

Can you do your own tire filling? Its expensive up here.

You're out a lot of money if you go for the swap. How do you find your traction when using something on the 3 point?

 

OP

OP

T

Tbone550

Member

• Jan 11, 2011

• #1

No, I can't do my own tire filling, but I'll at least be able to have the fluid in the 14.9's transferred to the 18.4's if I go that route.

Traction is better with weight on the 3-pt., but of course it's not like 4wd.

 

showcrop

Well-known Member

• Jan 11, 2011

• #1

Do you have a heavy implement to put on your 3 PT temporarily? Or you could build a heavy weight that will mount on the 3 PT and you can pretend that it is an implement?

 

glennster

Well-known Member

• Jan 11, 2011

• #1

if your rear tires are loaded now, you should have about 560 lbs of ballast in each. i would either add more cast iron wheel weights at this point, or maybe make up some type of brackets and hang some suitcase weights on the rear. swapping tires and rims is gonna get spendy.

 

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Anonymous-0

Well-known Member

• Jan 11, 2011

• #1

chains would be the cheaper way to go.

 

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Fordfarmer

Well-known Member

• Jan 11, 2011

• #1

18.4x26's are way bigger than 14.9x28's. Your ground speed will increase, and bigger tires require -more- weight to make them bite. If you fill them with fluid, they will bite and give you extra counterweight, but the fluid from the 14.9's will not be enough. The cast centers will help, but you may need different (longer) wheel studs. $500 seems a bit high, if one tire is no good... there are lots of 18.4x26's in parts yards with old combines.
I would not make the switch, but I am in snow country (sounds like you are not) - wide is not so good in snow. I'd say you will get more bang for the buck by adding more weight to what you have now.

 

B

bg/mo

Member

• Jan 11, 2011

• #1

that is the problem with two wheel drive and a loader, you are never going to get it to go like a fwa, if its greasy on top you are going to spin.

 

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El Toro

Well-known Member

• Jan 11, 2011

• #1

I would add more weights as been sugested. How about installing a set of chains on the drive wheels? Hal

 

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Anonymous-0

Well-known Member

• Jan 11, 2011

• #1

Tire chains would be much better- I doubt bigger tires would make much of a difference.

Quick coupler on 3 pt. And a heavy weight also set up for a QC would also help, but chains are the answer.

After spending all that money, you wouldn't notice much difference, I'm afraid.

I prefer no extra weight of any kind and aggressive chains. The extra weight is counterproductive once the snow melts. It causes compaction and rusts out the rims.

 

M

Mike Aylward

Well-known Member

• Jan 11, 2011

• #1

TBone, it sounds like you want to keep the 3-point open in case you want to use something. Here is an idea for you. Why not buy a quick hitch AND a weight box for the 3-point? That way you could put the weight box on quickly for loader work and then just as quickly drop it off for other 3-point jobs. You could probably get this done as cheap or cheaper than changing wheels and tires. Just a thought. Mike

 

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Greenpully

Member

• Jan 11, 2011

• #1

I filled a 55 gal. drum with concrete after welding three point and top link componets.Concrete plant filled it with left overs.Weighed 1280 lbs.works good, easy on easy off.GP

 

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Mathias NY

Well-known Member

• Jan 11, 2011

• #1

My dad owns a 2155, with 175 loader (bought it new). The rears tires are 16.9x28, they are loaded, and have one set of wheel weights on them. Under normal conditions the front tires (7.5x16) will squish and flatten under the load before traction problems develop. When he bought the tractor, he also purchased a second set of wheel weights, but hasn't used them because they haven't been needed.

Consider buying a 2nd and 3rd set of wheel weights if you need to leave the 3pt clear.

 

OP

OP

T

Tbone550

Member

• Jan 11, 2011

• #1

The weight box and 3-pt quick hitch may be an option, I'd just like to leave the 3-point alone if possible.

I hear a lot about chains here, but I've never seen anyone in this area using them. Are they hard on the tires?

I also have to operate on polished concrete some of the time. My experience with tracked machinery and concrete is that you get awful traction and torn-up concrete. Are tire chains going to do the same thing?

So everybody thinks switching tires and rims would be a waste? Sounds like loading it down further is what needs to happen then.

 

OP

OP

T

Tbone550

Member

• Jan 11, 2011

• #1

I wish I had that problem. I have the same front tires at 35 psi. They don't squish unless the rear end is so unloaded that I need differential lock to back up.

I also have the swept-back front axle which further unloads the rear. I've priced replacing it with a used straight axle, but $1500 is the number I get from anyone who has one for sale.

 

C

camju

Member

• Jan 11, 2011

• #1

I use chains on my 1650 till haying season and at first snow fly they come back on.You talk about grease I assume you meen clay as is what I have. Makes a world of diffrence when it rains if you have chains.They will mark up polished concrete if you turn or are agresive but it doesn't seem to be to bad if you go slow.

 

V

VicS

Well-known Member

Location

SE Il.

• Jan 11, 2011

• #1

I second the quick coupler. We have one on our 4320 compact. have two sets of weights on the back also, even with 4 wheel drive, it needs something on the back to move 4 X 5 bales. With the quick coupler I can hook the blade without getting off, and unhook it when I am done. Or get the bale fork, and haul two. Vic

 

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JDseller

Well-known Member

• Jan 11, 2011

• #1

Tbone how far out is your loader mounted??? The brakets that are for that 175 and 2150 come with two different sets of mounting holes. The long ones are for the 2550 and 2750 that are four cylinders. If the person mountin the loader used the back holes and cut the front off, your loader is six inches too far forward. It does not sound like much but will make a world of difference. I always mounted any loader as close to the tractor as I could.

If you switch to cast centers on the tractor you can then get different wheel weights that are heavier. Steel centers and cast use different weights.

 

K

Ken Macfarlane

Well-known Member

• Jan 12, 2011

• #1

I'll add I find that chains tear the #$%^ out of polished concrete and you have 0 traction. Try to get out of a sloped manure lagoon or silage pit with chains on a 2wd... good luck.

In mud or snow they are great though!

I'd get a weight for the 3 point. Its the cheapest option. Barrel of concrete or old wheel weights from the tire shop works well.