broke my loader.

I broke both bucket cylinders digging myself out of a drift the other day,( Pallet forks went in the frozen ground) snapped both cylinder rods at the mounting hole, anything special about welding on those chrome rods?

Get some 6011 prop it up on some cinder blocks and go to work.

Be sure to wrap tape or something around the chromed part of the rods because weld spatter will eat up the packing chevron/seals in the end of the cylinders. I found this out the hard way once.

There is a guy in Missouri named Harley thats the master of the 6011. I'd bet he could offer some good advice if you can locate him.

all the true master farmer welders use 1109 welding rod

LOL I thought I was one of the only to call it 1109

Hate to barge in, but makes me think of a story.. Few years back I was trying to weld on a combine and wasn't doin so hot (I'm not so hot at welding, but have since started taking classes, so I'm improving) My grandad stopped by and was trying to help..

He went at it a minute and started complaining about my 6011.. I went to the shed and grabbed a few more rods handed em to him and said "Here, try this 1109 and see if it's better".. Took him a second but he caught on and we all had a laugh..

Brad

if you smoke (soot) the shaft with just aceetylene from your torch, you can wipe off any slag or clinkers from the rod. if i remember right it starts burning offf at about 600 degrees, letting you know when the cylinder rod it getting too hot.

Harley and JK are 300 miles south of me!

I assume you mean the pin mount mount broke off the end of the cylinder rod? Did the cylinder rods bend at all? Nothing too special to weld them as long as you know what you're doing. It's best to take the cylinders apart but can still be done with the cylinders together. You have to have the rod extended all the way and wrap something like an old welding glove or other piece of leather or non flammable material around the rod to protect it from weld spatter. First look and see if it broke right at the factory weld. That will give you an idea of how it was welded originally. It may not have been the best weld from the factory either. You need to grind the old weld off of both pieces and then grind a bevel on the rod. I'd grind a bevel on one side and then another bevel 180 deg. to the first bevel. This will be the top and bottom to weld the pin eye on. You will get more weld length wise(across the top and bottom parallel with the pin) on the pin eye than than on sides(ends) of the pin eye. You can make the bevel deeper than the original to add additional weld for more strength. Don't go to far back with the bevel on the rod. You just want enough room to get the welding rod in there for good penetration. You don't want your weld repair to interfere with the barrel of the cylinder when it's retracted all the way. If you have reasonable welding skills, 7018 should be plenty strong enough. I wouldn't use MIG or even attempt the repair if you don't have enough welding experience. You don't want to be lifting something up and have it all of sudden come crashing down cause your weld wasn't strong enough. A couple passes will be stronger than 1 pass just don't let it get too hot. Go back and forth between the 2 cylinders. Once you have it ground and ready to weld, it would be a good idea to mount the pin eye onto the bucket/fork attachment and tack it in place real good. This will ensure that the pin will line up. After putting a couple good tacks, take the pin out and and rotate the cylinder rod so you can put a couple more tacks on the other side. Then you're ready to weld it. I'd turn the rod and weld the 2 ends first. This will hold it straight so you can grind the tacks out on one side to put a pass in the bevel. Once that side is done, turn the rod and grind the other tacks out and weld that side of the bevel. I would weld the ends on one cylinder, then do the ends on the other cylinder. Then I'd put the first pass in both bevels of the first cylinder and repeat on the second cylinder. This will give it enough time to cool off a little. Then do the final pass filling up the bevels. Let it cool on it's own. One other thing I should mention is to make sure you have a good ground for the welder. I'd hook the ground on the pin eye. You don't want any arcing on the cylinder rod. Hope I made sense. It's simple to think about but hard to type what you're thinking. Dave

Hi Jimmy!

Nice to see your name pop up on here. :>)

Allan

Funny you should mention Harley. I remember him from Columbia a couple years back when he was sitting by a big fiberglass cow. He seemed like a real nice smelling guy. Yeah, I'm sure he would weld it for you.

most are just chrome plated, V them out ,pre heat and use a mig or 7018

I do appreciate the advice, the cylinder was drilled and the hole broke, I am planning to use weld on swivel eyes made for repairing 3 point arms. That way the size is right and if I misaligned it a small amount it will be covered.

The swivel mount for the top link on a category 1(3/4") is kind of small where it's welded. If that's the size, you could grind back the ear that gets welded so it's as wide as the rod. If the ear is wider you could make a notch in it so it goes over the rod about 1/2 an inch. This would add a lot of strength. Just make sure it doesn't interfere with the rod retracting all the way. If the rod is 2 or more inches longer than the barrrel, you could make the notch a little deeper. Keep in mind that those swivels aren't greaseable and will wear out eventually. Dave