Low voltage to the starter and Ignition at starting is the mos likely issue. This assumes the mentioned parts are in adjustment, and the timing is on. The first tool in my box to be pulled out is a starter draw meter. It is cheap <$20 and so very easy to use. It is just placed against a battery cable and looked at while cranking. The tractor should be pulling about 275 to 350 amps while cranking. If there is more than this, it is probably a dragging starter motor, or other starter grief. (rebuilding the motor is easy) if it is less than that amount, the cables might be small in copper (not necessarily rubber)and/or the battery is low in CCA or weak from age. The cheap meter pays for itself instantly. Cables must be double0 (00Gauge) they must be copper with soldered on terminal ends. There are gell batteries (pricy but great) with high CCA (maybe 800 or more that fit the bat box) that will twist off a 10" hawthorne tree at the stump. Good luck. JimN
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Today's Featured Article - Harvestin Hay: The Early Years (Part 2) - by Pat Browning. The summer of 1950 was the start of a new era in farming for our family. I was thirteen, and Kathy (my oldest sister) was seven. At this age, I believed tractor farming was the only way, hot stuff -- and given a chance I probably would have used the tractor, Dad's first, a 1936 Model "A" John Deere, to go bring in the cows! And I think Dad was ready for some automation too. And so it was that we acquired a good, used J. I. Case, wire tie hay baler. In addition to a person to drive th
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