A SIMPLE test is to disconnect the alternator completely (tape up the loose wires to prevent letting smoke out of the wiring).
Does the battery then stay up?
If it is a 10SI-style 3-wire unit, the #2 terminal will aways be "hot", key on or off.
The #1 MUST be only "hot" with the key switch "on", or when there is engine oil pressure, if the conversion is set up with an oil pressure switch.
Even if it is a manual-shutdown diesel, it's a good idea (despite what some alternator "experts" will tell you) to have an "idiot lamp", a resistor or a diode in the lead to the #1 "switched excite" terminal, as this will prevent alternator damage under certain conditions. (Having to do with a loose wire or even a little resistance in the circuit between the alternator's large output stud and the battery.)
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Today's Featured Article - Harvestin Hay: The Early Years (Part 2) - by Pat Browning. The summer of 1950 was the start of a new era in farming for our family. I was thirteen, and Kathy (my oldest sister) was seven. At this age, I believed tractor farming was the only way, hot stuff -- and given a chance I probably would have used the tractor, Dad's first, a 1936 Model "A" John Deere, to go bring in the cows! And I think Dad was ready for some automation too. And so it was that we acquired a good, used J. I. Case, wire tie hay baler. In addition to a person to drive th
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