Again, I don't mean to beat you over the head (or the subject to death) but the records on the M are ambiguous enough, for that period especially, that I question assigning a chassis serial number at this late date, to any tractor based on the number on the motor. It would be really nice if IH was still around, but even then, it would probably be just one old eccentric bachelor left hanging around in the production manager's office that could explain what those numbers mean and, if it turned out that he had died, we'd be right back in the soup you and I are swimming in.
In those cases of missing plates, even on the earlier tractors (like the As and Bs that I'm more familiar with where the numbers DID run together for many years, but eventually got apart), I can sympathize with the folks who want to have a plate, but even in those cases, I encourage those that want to have a new plate made up to have it made with only the first two or three digits, only as far as they can go for a given year and only if the casting dates are reasonably consistent with their motor number, and fill in the rest with Xs.
CNKS's point about the L indicating a Louisville casting has possibilities, too.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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