Okay according to the cub operators manual the right side post on the ammeter as viewed from the back is the battery side (the side wired to the B post of the regulator). The post on the left side is the "Starting switch to ammeter cable". This is how mine is wired. However I did have the wire going to the "battery in" post on the light switch wired to the battery side of the ammeter, so I took your advise and moved it to the non battery side. This is what I get-L no lights ammeter reads 0. H front lights are dim NOW the ammeter remains at 0. D front lights are bright but should be dim and ammeter reads 0. B Front light are bright and back light comes on BUT ammeter still reads 0. The ammeter is the original, do you think all this messing around has damaged the ammeter?
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Today's Featured Article - An Old-Time Tractor Demonstration - by Kim Pratt. Sam was born in rural Kansas in 1926. His dad was a hard-working farmer and the children worked hard everyday to help ends meet. In the rural area he grew up in, the highlight of the week was Saturday when many people took a break from their work to go to town. It was on one such Saturday in the early 1940's when Sam was 16 years old that he ended up in Dennison, Kansas to watch a demonstration of a new tractor being put on by a local dealer. It was an Allis-Chalmers tractor dealership,
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