Possible, yes,likely no. Jack it up, loosen wedge bolt until it starts to force against wedges trying to push them apart. Then turn wheel so key side of axle is down. Strike top of axle at the end with like a four pound hammer. Use lots of penetrating oil. Keep trying to turn bolt and wack it again. If you are lucky the outer wedge will come out, and then you can take a large heavy bar and with a large or larger hammer drive inner wedge out of wheel. If the inner wedge is the one that comes loose first it is really difficult to get enough pop to drive that outside one out. Oh, after one wedge comes loose turn wheel again so wedge is on bottom. That wack on the axle is what will get it's attention though. Before we had the good horse shoe removal tool the wedges were a real problem. All the earliest tractors came with was a pair of large headed pins to hook each end of wedge.Didn't work well. Also, when tightening them, lots of anti sieze and again use the tap on axle to seat wedge, no point in over torquing them as that will only damage threads.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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